Start about 30 feet left of Lunchmoney along the ledge system. Climb the crack system that trends right and then up the jagged, left-facing flake. At the top of the flake, the angle eases and a few slabby moves lead to a loose ledge. Continue up the dihedral (5.6) to the ramp. 100 feet. 'Contra' is on the upper headwall. Pretty decent route as far as Clear Creek trad climbs go. Watch for loose rock. Careful on the ledges, eh.
Descend down the ramp, and traverse the ledges north back to the base of the routes.
Protection
Standard rack, emphasis on TCUs and a few small nuts. Some of the placements are tricky to find, but they are bomber. A few runners help with the drag.
We didn't think so either, hence the pro description. -first ascensionists
By Casey Bernal From: Wheat Ridge, CO Dec 19, 2002 rating: 5.7+
With permission from the FA, I added a pin to protect the cruxy insecure step left on to the slab. It is now well protected for the entire pitch, even though the gear is small, it is still bomber. Without the pin your feet were well above your last piece of small pro when you pull the insecure moves. Now the protection is consistent.
The route has cleaned up nicely and it has very enjoyable climbing that provides an excellent warm-up and approach pitch to Contra.
Casey and I put in a Fixe 2 bolt rap anchor at the top of Mounty. Is easily accessible from the base of Contra. 90 feet to the ledge where Mounty starts (by a lone small juniper). Consider a belay anchor on the exposed ledge at the start -- large cam (#3 Camalot) / med hex.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 3, 2004 rating: 5.8
The route seemed stiff for 5.7, especially for shorter folks. There is one slopey move early where a 3.5 Camalot or #4 Friend is nice. Otherwise, nothing bigger than a #0.75 Camalot is needed.
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Sep 11, 2005 rating: 5.8
A fun pitch. I used pro from a green Alien to a #3 Camalot. The steep crack in the middle of the pitch protects with a #.5 and a #.75 Camalot.
After the slab move by the pin, I angled left to a corner with four bolts on the right wall. I clipped the first two bolts (these are actually on the route Aries), then went left to the anchor shared with Vitamin N.
There is a good ledge at this anchor, so it is easy to belay here, bring up your partner, then rappel.
By Walldahl From: Golden, CO Aug 21, 2006 rating: 5.8
I think I missed a critical hold through the crux. Nevertheless, I managed to smear the feet a little higher and escaped the barn door action, just barely. I had at least a 20’ run out through the crux and opted to clip the bolt just 3’-4’ right of the pin for my next piece. When I go back to climb this again, I will opt to use the pin and slot the bomber #7 nut up high instead of the bolt before the finish.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
