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Contra 

5.11

   

FA: Darren Mabe
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 954 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 2, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Contra.


Description 

Contra is located on an upper steep head wall above Lunchmoney. The climb is about 50 feet in length. Same approach as Lunchmoney.

Three options for the approach: 1) climb Lunchmoney and continue above chains through loose fifth class about forty feet to big ramp. 2) Traverse ledge system at the base of Lunchmoney to the south and hike up the first easy ramp to the top. 3) climb Mounty (5.7 trad) to ramp.

Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Start.

Please confirm rating, as this is a new route.


Protection 

Four protection bolts, two bolt anchor with webbing. (Chains will be there soon...) TCU handy for start.



Comments on Contra Add Comment
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By piz
May 29, 2002

Hey Darren,

It's 5.10b good fun and a nice line.

piz : )

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2002

10b for tall people.... 2 moves harder for mid 5 footers. The rock quality is much better than it appears.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 31, 2002

Chains are now on the anchors.

By WiledHorse
From: NoGo
Dec 12, 2002

It is possible to protect the direct start with a funky green Alien. This will at least keep you from tumbling down the ramp. Once on the ledge underneath the first bolt, you can get yellow TCU in the horizontal. Extend with runner to avoid crossload of biner. BTW there are quicklinks on the anchors, not chains.

By Bryson Slothower
May 14, 2003

10.b seems like a sandbag to me and I'm tall. Reaching the last hold before the anchors felt .11ish to me.

By Casey Bernal
From: Wheat Rige, CO
May 14, 2003
rating: 5.10+

Bryson - On the FA it sure felt like 11 hence the original rating. Piz found a hidden hold and new sequence to do the crux. Doing it with his beta it seemed much much easier, probably as hard as the previous semi-crux. Probably 10ish.

By Drew Allan
From: Denver & Aspen
May 27, 2003
rating: 5.10d

I have to agree with Bryson. On sight this route is 11ish or at least 10d++. I am also 6' and had trouble finding the right sequence just before the anchor. I certainly didn't find a hidden hold to make it 10b. Although it is short, the route is harder than most 10c/d's in CC (to qualify: CC 10c/d only!!). The route is definitely steeper and more edgy than I expected. Make sure to bring your edging shoes. Footholds down low on the right side are still flaking off somewhat. If you come from Lunchmoney, note the old pin above the anchor and pass it and head up and right to Contra. Be Careful with the lichen and loose rock.

NOTE: There is a big Raven/Crow's nest to the right of the top of this route with three to four babies in there. Mom wasn't happy to have us there. I didn't see the nest until I got to the anchors. It might be advisable to stay off this route until mid summer when presumably the babies will have left.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2003

Looks like there is a math error, whereas if the original route poster does not specify a grade, then otehr people add 'consensus' grades, the rating average is divided by N+1, not N, and thus the grade is mathematically sandbagged.Myke & Ben- one to work on.

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 6, 2003
rating: 5.11a

I am biased being that I am restricted to a dyno for the hold at the top, but 10b? Sorry Piz we are just mere mortals..................

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.11b

Fun climb, but ledges divert one's attention from the moves on lead. Don't know of any local 10b like this. 2 lunges at 5'10" +2. With a 60m rope, you can rap to Lunchmoney's anchors if Monty has traffic.