This route climbs up to the obvious stem box / bombay chimney. Start beneath it on a slab and climb up and right to find a crack above a roof that leads up to the box. The bottom section of crack takes lots of pro but when you climb higher up you realize the whole block that you have gear in isn't too solid, but hopefully it will hold
After the first initial section of crack you have a handcrack for a couple moves to the base of the box. Place a good small/medium nut and figure out the moves to get into the stem box. Place a large nut and step out right to the arete and climb easy ground to the top. You should be proficient in placing tricky nuts and TCUs, otherwise it might be somewhat risky.
It might be possible to set up a gear toprope, or use the chains to the left, but it seemed most reasonable to top out and belay above from gear, boulders or trees. Fun stuff. - Casey Bernal
a fine pitch of trad climbing - sews up nicely and the 'bombay' roof is a kick after putting together the moves - the route takes a lot of med to large nuts and small to mid tcu's - the roof can be loaded with small gear before you stem into it and then can be protected again when you're in deep and ready to step out to the right - super fun trad climb in Clear Creek! I guess the anchor bolts were chopped at some point?
Interesting route... I wasn't totally psyched about my placements lower down, though there are certainly many options for pro. I would recommend getting in a solid nut here and there; one or two of my cam placements just didn't seem a hundred percent. Fun alternative to clipping bolts, though. Alternative way past the roof would be out to the left, though to the right seems easier. Also, there's another decent trad line about 15 feet to the right that tops out through the short dihedral. Don't know the name. Probably 5.9 as well at the top.
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