BETA PHOTO: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger@SEMICOL...
Description
This route is located to the left of 'Eiffel Tower'. This route is very straight forward with a sloping topout and tricky feet towards the 5th and 6th bolts. The first half of the route climbs through a vegetated crack and easy terrain. A great route, the only thing it lacks for this type of route is continuity, the difficult moves don't last very long, but are enjoyable.
This line lies just to the right of Trouthead 10c/d and just to the left of Eiffel Tower 10d; it is the 5th line in from the 'cave' on the left side of the crag. A great line with delicate face climbing a thin layback and a sloping topout. 2nd and 3rd clips seemed difficult, but overall the climb seemed well protected as long as you get the 2nd bolt clipped. A great 7-bolt line that offers a variety of climbing moves. I don't recall any vegetation on the route as the description states.
This used to be an exciting lead for the grade. Now that bolts have been added to this route, the only thing that you have to worry about is Z-clipping.
I also would like to know what's up with the retrobolting on this route and others in the vicinity. The extra bolts on this climb seem for the most part unnecessary although the new finish is a good idea. Whoever it is, please don't redo the route to the right (Eiffel Tower) and consider removing the fourth bolt on Eiger Sanction
By Kyle Turner From: Broomfield, CO Jul 29, 2004 rating: 5.10d
Fun route with a challenging left handed pinch before the overhang for a .10 leader. Highly recomended.
KT
By Kyle Turner From: Broomfield, CO Oct 29, 2004 rating: 5.10d
opps wrong route, was talking about the first pitch of too..
Because "Trouthead" has been added, this route is no longer the next to the right of "Headline", but is directly right of "Trouthead".
As a sidenote, in case you are not aware, the name of the route was taken from a novel which was adapted into the best climbing movie of all time. I know; the body of climbing films does not constitute a rarified genre. However, this 1975 film, directed by and starring Clint Eastwood, comes highly recommended and contains some realistic climbing. You'll see some old-school hip belays and hexes, though.
The 2nd bolt seemed a pretty spicy with ground fall possibilities. The 6th both gave me some issues. I could have approached it wrong, but after a number of tries I couldn't seem to clip it prior to committing to the set of thin moves (I'm 6'1" btw). I ended up taking a bad fall here slamming the wall with my hip. It was fun up until that point.
Little Eiger
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