Lots of good moves if you like crimpers and sloper jugs. Very well protected, but still scary! You might like this. It is just left of the 2 cracks on the far right. Follows the "black and tan" stain up the slab.
As far as I can tell it's been open for over 5 years. Though, I would put it more at 5.13b. Very slabby, with an insane one foot balance crux up to some weird slopey gaston, if memory serves. When you hike up to the Wall of the '90s, go up and right. Continue past 10 Digit Dialing and The Strange Iron Handle, down and around the corner. It is the next bolted line on the wall, and should have one or two steel links screwed onto bolts. Not sure if they're for bailing, or if someone chose them instead of a biner. The start is a bit chossy, and leads to a high first clip. If you start going up hill again and come to the furthest bolted line (Interstellar Overdrive) on the wall, you've gone too far. Good luck, this climb is stout!
By WiledHorse From: NoGo Mar 16, 2008 rating: 5.13
I am sorry to report that this route is even harder now. I broke off two of the crux holds yesterday. One is the right-facing flake entering the crux below the lower clip, it is now a smaller almost undercling crimp. Yikes! This hold may not last long either. Also, at the crux bolt, in the weird gaston dish, a small part of the smallest usuable two finger crimp broke off.
This may bump the rating a letter. It will still go, but I would put it at LEAST 13b now.
The footwork is insane on this route!
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Mar 17, 2008
Got on this thing today on tr - whoooo! stiff! Couldn't pull the crux moves down low, between bolt 3 and 4, I believe. I couldn't even conceive of a sequence that would work, but I know it's there and I'll be back! The rest of the route was tons of fun, with improbable looking moves that leave you smiling, and screaming, all the way to the top.
Does anyone know if this has been sent since the holds have broken? I haven't given in yet, but I may need some beta in the coming weeks if things don't go well for me.
LOL, good question, Darren; wingspan is 6'. I toyed with the idea of making the long reach, but I think I'm gonna have to give in and use either the gaston/dish or the micro-crimp underneath it. Gonna have to get up there and spend some time on that move, the other day it was getting dark and cold and didn't want to put my belayer through too much hell. Just out of curiosity, have you pulled the crux moves? Is there some beta floating around out there in the land of MP?
I came soooooo close making the crux moves on lead in its current state. Even with the wingspan, you still have to make a bunch of moves and not gain too much ground in order to hit the arete. PM sent....
I would give it 3 stars if the rest of the route was consistent, but as it stands, it's kind of a piss-hard one move wonder. And the rock is still pretty friable. The crappy footholds that you do get won't last that long either. Unfortunate....
RSS Feed
