Peter Dillon pulling onto the arete near the start...
Description
The is the last bolted route to the east before the cave with the overhanging faces. The cave has a fixed sling/rap ring anchor above a thin crack. To the right, a few feet right of the arete marks the start of this route.
There are a few delicate moves that will test your footwork and balance. Figure out the crux before the last bolt to get the onsight before the pump sets in. The bolt that protects the crux is below your feet by the time you can get to a stance to clip the next one at the lip. A second mini-crux comes in manteling the lip.
Protection
5 draws (maybe more now) to a 2 bolt anchor with funky tow-truck-like snaps (formerly a double hook anchor).
IMHO, I didn't consider this a very juggy climb at all. Moving up on the sidepulls while getting your body position correct was the theme of the climb.
Definitely not a straightforward, jug haul. Your body will indeed be in many different positions, making clipping sometimes a little tricky. I don't give this route any more than 1 star, didn't enjoy it as much as many, if not all of the other routes on this wall (except the routes around the corner to the left of this route, desperate!).
Juggy it is not. There is a huge flake hold before the 3rd bolt but above that there is nothing but sidepulls. No onsight here, after clipping the 4th I came off before in reach of the 5th. Nice rest before committing up towards the 4th, difficult, awkward clip and then it seems it's up or off. I couldn't see any good stances for either the 4th or 5th bolts. All semi-positive, side pulls that grease up quickly with tenuous feet! A difficult climb that requires balance and forearms! I'd probably be inclined to give it more stars if it hadn't slapped me around like it did; right now I don't even recognize the one! Eiger Sanction seemed easier at 10d. The crux on Bonehead seems to be a pretty stout 10c as Rolofson gives it.
I just put a comment on Conehead describing my confusion on these two routes (read it for details). Basically, I think a new route has been put between Bonehead and the arete, so it is no longer the farthest left before the cave and overhanging routes. Can anyone provide clarification?
Did Bonehead on Junes 17, 2006 and counted 8 bolts. I would say it's only slightly easier than Conehead.
By chris deulen From: Duluth, MN Nov 17, 2007 rating: 5.10c/d
This felt like a legit 11a to me (I've been on it 2 or 3 times the last few weeks). I would, however, only give it one star as well. Maybe one and a half.
Little Eiger
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