This route starts downhill from the tree in the gully. Belay across the gully. Crank on a hollow flake past the first bolt for a powerful start. Chase a right-facing flake then continue up the face past more cruxes, with the hardest crux at the top.
One of 5 unbelieveably bad routes that are up the hill and left of the main section of the Anarchy wall. This route is the furthest to the right, and is distinguished by lichen, bushes, loose rock, and breaking holds. The bolts appear to be safe, but the route gets an "s" for the chance of hitting your belayer with one of many big hunks of rotten rock that are waiting to come down. The climb mimics the approach gully, which is a trough of scree and small boulders. Avoid this route at all costs.
Actually I thought the routes here were not too bad, and this may be the best one, but then I can't climb the stuff at Anarchy Wall. This was probably the least loose of the lot. Although I fell on the last crux, the most scary part was definitely crossing the scree slope at the bottom, I'm glad I had a belay for that!Personally I can't see how this gets an 11c, but maybe all the cleaning has made it easier.
This is a good route the belay is some what sketchy. This route gets some crap but I think over all it has potential. There are some great moves just off the ground, however, I am not sure about the rating, maybe 11a/b.
Best route on the wall. Still very short and dirty but not nearly as chalked up as most of Clear Creek perhaps justifying a harder rating, but the moves felt 11a/b.
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