This is a spooky warm-up for "Sonic Youth", running up the middle of the wall to the left. Scramble up the ramp until bolts lead up overhanging rock onto the wall. The crux comes quickly, with fingery layaways with sketchy feet past the second clip. The spook factor comes from having to climb until your feet are above the bolt before it eases and you snag the third clip. It feels quite possible to skate off while balancing for the clip. The upper half is an easy hike to the anchors.
Protection
Four bolts to to anchor bolts with 1/2" hooks under the roof.
Very insecure crux, could use another bolt. This is a safety concern, not just because I was pissing myself here (and that's a nasty mess), but also because I took several unpleasant falls into the edge of the roof below. Unnecessarily sketchy/dangerous for a sport route in CCC in my opinion. Other than that, the route looks and climbs very well.
I whipped off above the second bolt and felt that the fall was fine. I think the bolts are right where they need to be and give the route a little extra excitement. If you're worried about safety, then you might want to take up another activity other than climbing.
The New River Wall
RSS Feed
