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Bumblies For Breakfast 

5.10a

   

FA: Alan Nelson, Annette Bunge, Ken Trout
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 322 page views

Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 22, 2001


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Description 

This is a great, continuous, 80' pitch that is not for the meek. It originally had five bolts (you do the math for the runouts), but an additional bolt at the bottom was added in the summer of 2001 to reduce the groundfall potential. This route was established in the old-school style: on-sight, from the ground, with the protection drilled from free stances. As such, it is too run-out for your typical sportclimb, but it's got big bolts that were drilled with a Hilti.

Even though it's steep, it's a highly featured less-than-vertical slab, so falling is discouraged. With that in mind, it's got lots of holds and occasional rests. If you're comfortable on 5.10 sport routes, you'll probably enjoy this, but if you're just breaking into the grade get someone else to string it up and run it on a toprope.


Protection 

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.



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By Bryson Slothower
Mar 27, 2002

I'm pretty comfortable on 5.10 and enjoyed leading this route but found it to be a bit dicey. The moves are fun and the holds are good but a slip from one of several 5.10 moves could leave you seriously bumming. It is possible to TR this route after leading the 5.9 just to the right that shares the same anchor

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Apr 16, 2002

I agree with Bryson. The moves are good but the bolts are a bit runout.

By victor villarreal
Apr 23, 2002

Ditto. Nice route, but the runouts are there. Don't lead it if you are not comfortable having your feet 7-10' above the last bolt.

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jul 14, 2003

A small nut would take the sting out of the slopey section between the last bolt and the anchors.