Alan - you could very well be right. I've got a long wingspan and thus tend to sandbag on reachy vertical routes. Definitely a sustained series of very small holds.
I'll third the motion for the 11c. I remember scratching out the b in the llb/c grading as soon as I got home. Great sustained sequence on thin sharp crimps and a reachy, funky, mantel.
Most people avoid the original, although somewhat contrived first crux by moving right just below the bulge then back left over it. The rating should probably stick with the way most people do the route & still follow the general line of bolts. Doing it direct is about 5.11d.
Fun for sure, I sort of traversed left to right under the third bolt then back left for the crimpy crux and then the mantel which made for an awesome sequence, interesting moves but very sustained and difficult, I give it 11c/d probably.
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