This route starts with a crux mantle past the first bolt onto a large sloping ledge. Anyway you try it, it is a solid 5.11 move that has befuddled many a 5.12 leader. The real trick is avoiding the "Beached Whale Syndrome", flopping around until you slide off backwards. From the ledge, nice overhanging reaches between 5.10 jugs take you to the anchors.
Omit the mantle, though fun, quite hard, heel hook the bad boy and stand up. But as the man said, don't pull a "beached whale". It usually doesn't work and you don't get props for style.
Definitely a nice little boulder problem type route. After the mantle, there are jugs to the top. The mantle can be ommitted as mentioned with heel hook but what fun is that ? (kidding) do it how you can, but at least try the mantle for a second time. A neat line.
Rainy Day Rock
RSS Feed
