The only thing that keeps this route from a three star rating are the rests that break the continuity. Skip the rests and you've got an awesome line (but you'll probably fall off...). Start with a .12a move off the deck, then work up left to an alcove (shake rest #1). Exit left high (harder) or low (easier) and wind up in a lay down slot (rest #2 - take a nap). Another .12a crux leads past two more bolts until you can swing around the corner (rest #3 - have a seat). Come back out onto the overhanging face for the final .12b crux to the anchor hooks. Add it all up and it comes to .12c, though some may argue it is only .12b because of the rests. Anyway you call it, it is a challenging redpoint that starts hard, stays hard, and saves the hardest for last.
Protection
Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor with 1/2" open coldshuts.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Aug 10, 2001
The description above is great, but I have one thing to add: your chances of redpointing this route are much much lower if it is in the sun or if it is exceptionally hot out. The Anarchy wall is in the shade in the morning, and you should take full advantage of that. The slopers down low are well, slopers, so watch out.
Anarchy Wall
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