Short crimpy wall with a long reach off an undercling. Fun climbing--many will feel it to be easier than advertised but others will be put off by the size of the holds. Do it in July if it still feels too easy.
Protection
4 bolts. If you fall off close to the second bolt, you could hit the big ledge below.
Call me a coward but after redpointing this the first time, I have always done it with the first 3 clipped. I advise anyone trying it to have a very attentive belayer as the ledge looks unfriendly.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Aug 10, 2001
First off, this route spanked me. The first couple sequences are very tough (5.13 for sure), and they spit me off repeatedly. My one piece of advice for this route is to bring a stick-clip. Unless you are comfortable clipping off of tiny .13 crimps with bad feet it'll be pretty scary.
Anarchy Wall
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