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Nomad's Cave
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Roid, The 
Unknown at Nomad 

Express Yourself 

5.13c

   

FA: Pete Zoller
Type: Sport, Chipped
Consensus: 5.13b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 359 page views

Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001


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Andrew Yake (left) on express yourself (5.13a), Be...


Description 

Leftmost chipped route in the cave. Hard boulder problem leads to straightforward pockets and a final crux. Not be confused with "Hard Day Mining" which is another set of pockets that join it from the right.


Protection 

4 bolts.



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By andrew yake
May 19, 2003

Real fun route be sure to get your feet way right when you are going to the pocket at the top.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 10, 2005

The Jug at the 3rd bolt is gone. It is now a slopey crimp and the crux is way harder.

Does anyone have any idea about how hard it is now???

I think it is possible a dry tooler broke the hold but I wasn't there so I can't say for sure.

By Tom C
Mar 1, 2006

13c? I recommend preclipping the first two hanging chain-draws beta for the crux (follow each of these descriptions with a question mark as it is a work in progress), get the jug campus to the chipped left pocket, right foot on the jug, right hand toss to a crimp rail (slightly incut), match, both feet on jug, right hand to the crimp where the broken hold used to be, left hand to sidepull pinch, right foot on crimp rail, left foot drop knee against the west dihedral wall, left hand chipped pocket (crux), small dyno big reach to right hand chipped jug (clip), right foot to edge, right hand to undercling, match feet, right foot to jug far out right, left hand to pocket (redpoint crux), right hand chipped pocket by anchors, (clip). After doing Sonic Youth I got on this route, worked the moves and felt much harder than Sonic Youth (13a consensus). Feels like V8.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 6, 2008

I upgraded the route description to reflect the broken start. Maybe the drytooling fad can start breaking up Predator's drilled pockets and making a more "natural" route. (see comments on that route)

By Scott Hahn
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.13a

My two cents - This route is no where near 13c unless even more stuff has been ripped off since its most recent break. It was basically ridiculously soft 13a before - probably more like 12c. Then it broke which probably brought it up to 13a. At most it might be 13a/b - but by no means solid b let alone c. I also don't think it is fair to compare it to Sonic Youth which is a completely different climb with its crux almost right at the anchors so there is a definite pump factor involved.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 16, 2008

Scott, thanks for the input. Let's see some more opinions before the final verdict. Sonic has long been considered 12d by many, even with the added finish. I felt that Express Yourself was solid 13a before.