Road Rash Roof looks a bit intimidating from the ground (and it looks intimidating from just underneath the roof as well), but the climbing is well protected and very secure. Begin on a sparsely protected slab to the right of the dark gully with Jackpot on its left side. Rolofson's guide calls the slab 5.9, but don't believe it. A tricky move crosses a small prow below the roof and this is certainly a 5.10 section. To launch the roof, turn out and look straight away from the crag. Jugs, to a heel hook, to a jam, to a crimp along with some big juice will get you over this grunt, and the crux is pulling over the roof on the crimp. Gotta love Alan for that move! If you bring the muscle, this route is a kick; if you are feeling soft, pick a face route. Two stars for good continuity, well-protected, and the chance to launch through a big roof.
Protection
QD only and some slings for below the roof. This route has an 85 ft rap for close to 100 ft of climbing. It makes a very poor top rope problem, and the best ascent is to climb both partners to the top and rap with a 60 m rope.
A great route with a fun crux section. Lean out using the big jugs under the roof to the crux. An acrobatic move is necessary as the feet are needed while trying the roof ledge. Try a heel hook above your head if your upper body or fingers are not very stout. Then use the crack to lean against while rocking onto the heel hooking foot. A very thrilling crux move that everybody sould try!
Get your right heel way up high so you can move your left hand up next to it then campus. It ain't often the holds are good enough to do this, and the fall is so clean. Use a long draw under the roof and a super shorty above the roof to avoid the rope getting stuck in the crack as you turn the roof.
I just had a mountain bike wreck that left me with some serious road rash, so it seemed doubly appropriate to do this route in my current condition.
Pretty fun - a one move wonder, but it is a very interesting crux with cool exposure.
Be careful not too lower off the end of the rope! Tie a knot in the end. A 60M rope will get you close enough to scramble down, but won't get you all the way.
Also, it is much easier to clean this on a top rope, rather than cleaning on the way down.This route arcs up and right so it is somewhat of a hassle to get back to your gear as you lower.
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Aug 13, 2004 rating: 5.12a
I had a great time heeling with my right, then switching to my left and mantling to a hold out right. Many variations!
I climbed this route the other day. It was really fun, but when I got to the anchors, there was a red sling around it. So, I had lower off the bolt before the anchor. Just wondering if anybody knows what's wrong with it?
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Jul 21, 2006 rating: 5.12a
Fun route! Basically 60 ft of 5.9 to a V4 to 20 ft of 5.8 (the 5.10 mentioned in the description above is easily avoided by climbing left of the 4th bolt, rather than straight over it)
There are now chains w/ a ring at the anchors. A 60m will just get you to the sloping ramp.
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