Big Man On Campus 

FA:  Tod Anderson, 1997 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 174 page views Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 27, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

BMOC begins around the corner from KTBU with a bit of scramble down-hill. This route has several thin cruxes from 5.10 to 5.11 in the first 60 ft. BOMC gains the same overlap as KTBU, 60 ft off the ground. Haul up the overlap to face a difficult finger traverse that winds left and then back right to come back to the plumb-line from the anchors. The rock is very good. The moves are difficult but well protected, and the line has a lot of continuity. If it did not face South/East BMOC would undoubtedly see a lot more traffic than it does. I thought that The Great Defoliator did a fine job with this one.

Protection 

QD only. This 100 ft route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. BMOC needs a 60 m rope for descent, or bring two.