Brian wrapping the jug after the boulder problem s...
Description
This is a fantastic line with some great moves. The route is on the far right side of the cave and starts with the routes bouldery crux. This is followed with some killer moves on slopers and a couple of crimps. The feet are great and the moves are solid. Be ready for a good redpoint crux near the end as the pump factor will get you.
Some history on the naming of the route. Fred Knapp was working this route while Pete Zoller was putting in his line next to it. As Fred finished his route, he asked Pete Zoller what he thought it should be named. Pete said, name it anything but....Pizza Dick!! So, of course, that is the name that stuck. Anyway, that is the story. Three stars for a sweet climb that will challenge you but will leave you smiling when you get it.
Protection
Four bolts / two bolt anchor. Using a stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.
Yes, this is an excellent _natural_ line, unlike the routes next to it, which were manufactured. Some folks rightly disagreed with the drilling/chiseling ethic. Since this new natural line was right next door to Pete's drilled routes, (as I heard it) Pete said to name it anything except, "Pete's a Dick". The first ascensionist complied, but still got in a good jab by naming his new route "Pizza Dick".
AC: Yes, that makes a bit more sense, and I think that I actually thought that might be the case when I heard the story, but thanks for the clarification.
Yes, AC has the story right. I first called it "It's Not Nice To Fool Mother Nature"- derived from the old margarine commercials, if you're old enough to remember those. Pizza Dick was a name suggested by Christian Griffith as we drove back to boulder after he made the second ascent. It's the name that stuck.
By Matt whiteman From: Denver, CO Mar 7, 2007 rating: 5.12b/c
When compared against other 12c's in the canyon this one seems to be comparable! The crux start feels (as Jason said) to be a V5 boulder. Great route, pity that it isn't a little longer.
I did this route on Sunday with friends, and all of us agreed that this was more difficult than 10-Digit Dialing..I read some of the above comments, and I have not been on any of the other routes mentioned above so I would defer to their judgment on the grade..if it is really all that important. The pinch move was baked quite nicely, so maybe we received full value 98 degrees in the sun...maybe we were just stupid for being there in the middle of the summer! I look forward to doing this one again, perhaps in October. Young Doug.
Nomad's Cave
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