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The Monkey House
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Face Full of Bush 
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Schwing Salute 

Face Full of Bush 

5.10d

   

FA: Greg Purnell, October, 1999
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 276 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 21, 2001


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Description 

Face Full of Bush (aka Gregs' Roof) ascends the large bulging roof system below The Sprawl and immediately left of Monkey Bars. It climbs the roof on its left side. The climbing in Face Full of Bush begins in the deep wash at a point just before the huge chock stone used to start The Sprawl. Fire up on some good positive edges at 5.9 /5.10 climbing to some yellow blocks that look a whole lot more loose than they really are. Chase the ramp above to the left through the bush and get situated below the overlaps of the roof, chill, you'll need it for the pump about to unleash. Head into the overlaps on big reaches to largely good holds as the roof gets steeper and steeper. Fire a thin seam on the right to gain the last roof problem and the chains a short way above. Two stars for the good rock, fine climbing moves, and the chance to haul through some steep stone right here at home. Face Full of Bush is pretty easy by Greg's usual standard. As for the name...well, what do you think? It's for the bush on the route.


Protection 

QD only. This 80 ft route needs 10 - 11 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By MARSHALL BRITTLE
Sep 25, 2001

This is a great route with good holds and a strange traverse. Unclipping "drag" draws is a good idea. Moving to the chains is quite the fun move and I think makes the route. The rating is wrong, Richard, that should be 5.10d. Jogs don't make a climb a 5.11, just giving you a hard time, buddy! But it is only 5.10d. Marshall.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 25, 2001

Sorry, you are right about the grade. I checked my notes and Greg and I both gave it 10d.

By david goldstein
Mar 13, 2007

Perhaps my favorite 5.10 in CCC. It's long, has variety and culminates with a sustained, pumpy and tricky headwall.