Monkey Bars runs up the huge block before the cut through The Monkey House that divides The Monkey House proper from the block with The Sprawl on it (The Death Block). The climbing starts in the narrow wash before the huge chockstone that you stand on to start The Sprawl. There are four new routes in this sector between The Sprawl on the left and Monkey Puzzle on the right. Monkey Bars is the middle of the three roof routes. The climbing runs up to a multi-tiered roof system above on largely 5.9 climbing. An overhead clip before the roof can be had off a fine ledge with a no-hands rest. Power up the first roof for a 5.12a -5.12b crux that is very height dependent. Several 5.11c power moves through the overlaps leads to a final 5.11d crux at the last lip of the roof system . Pull the last roof and get established on your feet for a chill, two more tenuous clips with in-obvious hands gains the anchor. Two stars for the continuity, exposure, and great power moves.
Protection
QD only. This 80 ft route needs 10 -12 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 m rope is a good idea and the route has not been checked with a 50 m rope, so heads up on the descent.
Great route but there is a problem. As of 20-July-03 a large block several clips above the crux that forms a key hold has become dangerously loose. It desperately needs to be epoxyed but I do not have the expertise to do the job. It would be very ugly if that thing fell off.
Attempted this one yesterday, and was shut down at the beginning of the roof. If the correct beta is to set a left fist-jam in the crack under neath where the vertical meets the horizontal, reach around past the lip to a small "mail slot" with the right hand in a gaston position, match, buump right to a slot next to the bolt, then bump again to the obvious jug....I think there may have been a hold along, or near the lip that has broken off. Or maybe I was just a pansy, and unable/unwilling to pull through on what was clearly a harder sequence than the consensus. Whatever, the route up to the roof is worth doing, even if you don't pull the roof. Young Doug.
The Monkey House
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