Punishment starts 15 - 20 ft left of the blackish water streak that has Psycho Hose Beast running right up it. A slightly airy first clip with a burly move launches the route. Follow up a corner/seam system for six or seven clips on great stone, well protected, and equipped with a host of good moves. Edges and laybacks. The exit at the top of the corner/seam seemed a bit spooky inasmuch as the moves were a bit in-obvious, however, a near horrizontal crack just below the anchors will provide a fine answer for the finish, if you look around for the feet. This fine line is well worth two stars, and well worth the short hike.
Protection
QD only. This 70 ft route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Has anyone been on the route directly to the left of this route. It is a great route, slightly overhanging at the bottom to a sweet face crux at the top. 8 bolts to anchors. Probably 12d? Anyone?
I also got on the 12 just left of this route.Great line: 3 stars. Rolofson's guide lists it as a "5.12? project".I was thinking 12b or 12c but I don't know - it has a wicked crux .
Does anyone know the name or ostensible rating or whether or not it is still a project? It seems unlikely that it hasn't been sent yet.I didn't send it - but I will soon.
Richard, it has been red pointed, I sent it a few years ago (if we are talking about the same route) and I'm sure others have done so as well. [Equivalent] to a good [Shelf Road] 12b to me (not as hard as Oxamoxa, though). I am 6' with a slight positive ape index and it did make me stretch a bit. Great route
By desbien From: denver,co Apr 8, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Lots of deciphering. Easy to get pumped out on the not so obvious finish. Not nearly as fun as reefer madness down the slope or schwing salute.
The Monkey House
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