Breakfast Club is an interesting route with some varied moves. Climb an initial crack with insecure moves to a sloping ledge. Follow the bolts up the overhung arete until joining the final moves of the 11c route to the right. The last moves are done in the crack at the top of the arete. Staying out the the crack makes this route significantly more difficult. The moves on the arete are powerful, but quite enjoyable.
I think this route best by staying out of the corner altogether with your hands. You do stem across the right foot to clip the anchors. From the left hand crimp high and the righthand undercling/arete pinch/pistol grip thingy hike the feet and go with the right hand to the arete crimp by the last bolt. Then massage the right hand to the good right hand arete jug just a little higher. Finally stem right towards the 11c and cross the left hand high along the arete just below the roof to a gaston.From this position one can clip or reach a crimp jug high to the right. No jams needed and a nicer flow than the grovel up the shared corner.
anyone have beta for this route? above the sloping ledge i has doing a mini iron cross between two crimps... is this ridiculous? the reach up to the next left hand crimp feels 12+ easily... then the arete is alright... am i doing this all wrong?
Primo Wall
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