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Flying Cowboys 

5.12d

   

FA: Alan Nelson 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12+ [details]
Views: 517 page views

Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001


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Description 

Flying Cowboys is an interesting route, and the only 12d on the Primo wall. The best way to describe this one is two tricky boulder problems separated by a huge rest on a ledge. If you can link the initial powerful throw for the lower crux, and follow this with tricky climbing into the mantle, then you can take a nap on the ledge before finishing the route. Don't be misled into thinking the climb is over though, some difficult moves still separate you from the anchors and the Redpoint. Two stars for the sweet moves, not three though because of the nap-ledge rest.


Protection 

6 Bolts / two bolt/chains anchor.



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By willem
Jun 9, 2003

Don't get hustled onto the ledge. It was awkward getting back into the line. Just keep firing up!

By chris deulen
From: Duluth, MN
Aug 7, 2004
rating: 5.12c

This would probably go at 12d or harder for anyone under 5'8", or not sick strong (as in a 13+ climber). I didn't have any problem getting back on after the ledge. You just have to "slink" around it and reach for the good side pull while using the poor undercling.

By Jesse Ryan
Aug 10, 2006
rating: 5.12d

I felt 'Flying Cowboys' was harder via more bouldery moves than 'Sucking ...', I felt FC was 12d. Then again, on a cool crisp day, maybe not.