Mike Davis at the last bolt on hangman. Photo by J...
Description
Hangman is the furthest route to the right (East) on Primo Wall and starts after the slabs - just off the trail. Hangman and Suspended Sentence share the first four clips up a near vertical face with an adjacent right-facing corner. Stem the corner, move out right onto the face, and solve the first fingery 5.12 crux. This will deposit you into a horrizontal slot that defines the beginning of the roof system. Cop a rest here. The roof can be had on its left for SS or on the right for Hangman. Either way, the roof gets surprisingly steep immediately with 5.12 cruxes to the left or the right. I found the Hangman finish to be a lot less rough on the hands, perhaps a little more obvious. Hangman finishes through the roof on an open seam/flake system of lay-aways that are surprisingly powerful. These holds look huge, but in a couple of places you are working some pretty thin crimps on a steep wall. Two stars for sure for the complex moves at the start, powerful climbing, and excellent stone. Toss in another beer for Alan Nelson and his route finding skills. By the way, did I mention that the roof was steep???
Protection
QD only. This 40 ft route needs about 7 draws and you won't wish for fewer.
Really great route!! The 2nd bolt is a little out of line, so a longer draw is helpful on the 2nd and 3rd bolts to reduce some drag. Side Note: A friend of mine tried toproping this after I set it up and had an interesting, albeit hilarious, run in with the pine tree after taking a swing just below the roof.
Supposedly a hold broke on this in the roof, upping the grade substantially?
By Jay van Sam From: Denver CO Oct 23, 2009 rating: 5.12-
I've heard the same thing. A buddy of mine was out there not long ago with some friends, and they couldn't figure out they're way past it now that the hold has broken. He thought it was at least a number grade harder now.
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