Your Brain is the furthest route on the right side of the crag, just past some blocks. Get the first clip before starting. It is useful to drop back to the ground and use a slight variation for the actual climbing. A tricky move off the deck leads to the crux at the second bolt. Another clip and the anchors is the whole story. Very pumpy for such a short route. Your Brain on Rain shares an anchor with Swinging in the Rain, and this provides a convenient top rope, if you are not up to leading the mantle move on Swinging. Or, set it up vice-versa. NB: Your Brain leans a lot to the left and this makes for some TR problems, if that is what you plan on doing. Good place in the rain, but don't expect much sun.
Protection
QD only. This 35 ft route needs three to four draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Agreed, a short route with a good pump, as with the other lines on this little crag. The climbing should be done straight up to the first bolt, perhaps clipping the bolt and then lowering, not doing this I think would avoid the crux. If you do toprope this route, perhaps lower and place a draw on the second bolt, because once past here you should be home free. Dont step on the block to start this route, that would take the fun out of this.
Fun V3+ boulder problem that's really worth doing. Don't blow the second clip.
By JP3 From: Missoula, MT Mar 28, 2007 rating: 5.11a/b
Lets restore some integrity to the 5.11 grade, there is no way that this route is 11+, I'm not trying to strut my ego but this seemed like 11-. Cool route though, the second clip should not be blown!
By Matt whiteman From: Denver, CO Mar 28, 2007 rating: 5.11a/b
Yo officer friendly is way harder than this and is 11c. Great route though
Rainy Day Rock
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