Matt working up through the crux, closing 2002 out...
Description
Here is another excellent route by the master of excellent routes, Ken Trout. Balkan Dirt Diving begins in the middle of The Sports Wall in a smooth yellow plate bounded by a corner on the right.
Balkan Dirt Diving, like Generation Gap, delivers its crux right away. A thin seam move and a pair of clips leads quickly to a tricky traverse straight right into a shallow, left-facing corner. Hitting the corner dusts the crux at 5.12a. Chase a few bolts on excellent edges to a small roof that can be pulled on the left. Save the TCUs for the horrizontal jams above; the anchor is right above.
Three stars for the high quality stone, good climbing moves, variety, and continuity. Welcome to Clear Creek!!
Protection
QD only. The route is 75 - 80 ft long and needs 6 - 8 draws and a pair of small TCUs or #1 Camalot for the upper section before the anchor.
Great route with moves not often encountered in Clear Creek. A little heady at the top if you don't protect beyond the last bolt but the upper stuff is in the .8 range. Great technical sequence on the bottom and nice pump out to pull through the roofs. Can't wait to redpoint it.
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 21, 2009
The 4th was there Friday and I went back to make the redpoint today and it was gone. Pretty sketchy to say the least skipping that and going to the next bolt.
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