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The Sports Wall
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Generation Gap 

5.11a

   

FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 350 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 3, 2001


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Description 

Ex-warm-up, now a nice 5.11 clip up in its own right, Generation Gap is the left of the three main bolted lines on The Sports Wall. A thin seam leads the way immediately to the crux at 5.11a and the first clip. The route settles down after the initial difficulty to some fine 5.10 face climbing. Two stars for the fine quality rock, nice continuity at 5.10, and occasionally devious move. Good sunny spot in the early afternoon.


Protection 

QD only. This 70 ft line needs 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Joshua Lewis
Apr 9, 2002

Pumpfest with a capital P! Steep, balancey moves throughout. I was expecting one 11a move, followed by a 10a climb--wrong. Great line, for sure; challenging from start to finish.

By Brett Boyd
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 9, 2002

I think it is 10a after the initial moves. The moves just aren't obvious the first time that you do it.

By tobias
From: CO
Jan 1, 2003

Good sunny spot in late afternoon as well.... A fun climb, turns out left after the third bolt, then back right after the fourth.

By Andy Mauk
Jul 10, 2003

It feels 11a if you don't know the beta, but I think if you know the beta it is really like 10c/d. Great route!!

By chris deulen
From: Portland, ME
Sep 25, 2004
rating: 5.11a

Every climb in the world seems easier than it is if you know the beta, you moron.

By WiledHorse
From: NoGo
Aug 24, 2008

8/24/08: added a new bolt w/ring to back up the two rusty cold shuts. New bolt is triplex and all stainless hardware.

By Jon Zucco
Jan 25, 2009
rating: 5.10+

The initial move is a little balancy/pumpy; follow the arrow and start left with the rope on your left side to prevent entanglement.

By Andrew Bradberry
Jul 30, 2009

Yeah, I went left to make the first clip, then started the climb under the first bolt. The start is pumpy, and I fell just below the third bolt...pretty close to a ground fall in that area so be careful. Fun start though!