I'll give credit to Alan Nelson for red pointing pitch three first in 1996, but this baby is all mine. I'll hang tough on this point because every now and then the rest of our lives intrudes upon the serenity of our climbing gig. I put up this whole line one week in 1995 after having been denied academic promotion for highly dubious reasons. As a member of that politically incorrect breed of white angelo-male, I was simply "Not One Of Us". I put up this route for every man out there who has been shafted by the system, every man who has kept his nose to the grindstone, done the right thing, and still been screwed. Of this I am sure: I am not alone.
Not One Of Us begins on the right hand sector of the Highlander Crag, adjacent to the 5.9 route "Resume" (there is a theme here). A 50 ft 5.11 pitch is the entrance exam, and trickier than it looks. A very nice belay sets up the second pitch and the esthetic star of the route. Chase a small slab for several clips and get established on the arete. The climbing on the arete is just too cool for words. A big-ish heave to the right at the top of the arete will gain a jug, the lip, and a three bolt anchor. Amble up to the huge sprawling ledge and a belay bolt at the base of the third pitch, or belay from the three bolt anchor. The ledge is a better belay since you can sprawl out for some power-tanning. The third pitch has a tricky start to gain the prominent head wall above, and the best exposure on the Highlander Crag. When I first led this pitch in 1995 with Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, we had a line of spectators watching from the road; this is definitely one of the coolest positions in Clear Creek. Three stars for all of the personal angst (!!!), the good climbing, great stone, and superb position. And kudos to Alan Nelson, The Prince of Thieves, for beating us all to the punch.
Protection
QD only. This three pitch route can be done with a 60 m rope comfortably. Although under 200 ft in total, it is hard to combine the pitches, and works best as three. There is a double bolt anchor at the top of pitches one and three and a three bolt anchor at the top of pitch two.
Interesting route history Richard. Great job an a fantastic line. I think this route is one of the best for the grade, with classic moves and awesome position.
Sounds about par-for-the-course. As I recall, I had finished P1 and P2. Anna and I had gone through P3 a few days earlier with hangs to start and above, and I needed a ride to check the beta in comfort. As I also recall, Alan was not sweating bullets in the least, in fact it looked like a hike when he did it, a deceptive hike.
Great Route Richard.! Probably the best 12a in the canyon. You are right, the second pitch is the sweetest - awesome arete work. I have a question - I usually launch up into the arete using the crimps on the face gaining the arete half-way up. Is this correct?
MM - Sounds about right. My foggy memory may be a bit off here, but as I recall you run a couple of slab moves and just catch the arete when they run out (?).
michael-- i did it today the same as it sounds you did-- traversing left to the arete while balanced on a right side pull fairly high up (after beginning with the face climbing you mention above the slab.) You end up with your chest pretty much on that 3rd(?) bolt, and your left foot on that one decent step right on the arete. I suppose you could attempt to haul straight up the arete from below, but that would require a bit more power... As is, I enjoyed the moves and sequence coming in from the right. Cool (and airy) pitch! We had the same type curiosity onlookers pulled over off the road watching...
A decent route, I wasn't a big fan but then again I don't really know shit about shit. I would [recommend] that if you are going to put in the effort then you should carry a second 60m rope for an [awesome] 170' rappel all the way to the bottom. This saves tons of time plus you get the an [awesome] view of this section of the canyon, under the third pitch.
The Highlands aka Highlander
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