This is a killer line! A simple concept: run up the left side (face) of the main dihedral, pull a small roof, chase on up to a second roof, a head wall, and the anchors all for close to 100 ft. Problem is that it never worked out that way; not yet anyway. The bolt on the first roof was placed on rappel with the recognition that it would very likely have to move once the proper sequence through the roof was determined.
In 1996, I watched Pat Adams slip right by, he said 5.13?, but did not continue to the anchor. He indicated that a better place for the bolt would be 3 ft to the right, so the upper section still has not been done free from beginning to end. Interestingly, the climbing above this first roof is never harder than 5.11c. In 1997, I placed an anchor below the first roof, producing a 70 ft line at 5.12b/c and this was quickly red pointed, first by Alan Nelson in the Spring of 1997.
Enough history. Peer Review begins off the ledge at the base of the main dihedral on Highlander Crag. Start in the flake and crack system and fight up to the divergence with Peer Pressure. As the pump sets in, you pick up some good edges and reasonable feet. Launch into the white head wall with two incipient seams. Hang tight and watch the feet. The sixth clip is creepy but not unsafe. With a fresh start it is probably not harder than 5.11c to get to it, but the pump factor makes it feel a bit desperate.
Chase the seams for two clips or so, and jog back left at the top of the right hand seam on horrible feet and solid 5.12b finger edges for the crux, just below the anchor. Clip the anchor by stepping all of the way around to the left, Beta-max reveals a shallow pocket left of the anchor but user-friendly only when you are "eye-ball to eye-ball" with the hold. The anchor should be at your shoulder, and clipping lower is more desperate. Three stars for sure. Continuity, power, great climbing moves, excellent stone, and good pro make this a must do for a Highlander trip.
Protection
QD only. This 70 ft route needs 9 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. If you push on over the roof, the route is 100 ft from the anchor to the ledge and needs double ropes or a 60 m rope.
Indeed. Someone retrobolted the roof sequence, and hopefully for the better. I had solved everything except this roof move several years ago but could not pull off the move as originally intended. The new solution comes in from the left to gain the face above the roof. From there on up it never gets harder than mid 5.11.
Indeed, several new bolts added as part of a test of the Dewalt hammer drill. The drill worked great although I was never able to score a promo deal. The left hand var. goes at about 13a, which I almost readpointed in June 02. The right hand variation goes well to & slightly over the lip but after that???? Waiting for cooler weather. If you head up to the final roof expecting only 5.11 I think you're in for a surprise.
The Highlands aka Highlander
RSS Feed
