Peer Pressure starts off the ledge below the main dihedral that marks the center of the Highlander crag. The left side of the dihedral is marked by a flaring crack for 20 feet. Two routes start on a flake that leads into the crack and diverge where there crack ends, 20 ft above. The crack itself is a bit dirty, although it has cleaned up with use. Peer Pressure fires up and left at the top of the crack. Peer Review stays on the face. The crack section overhangs and flares, so the start of both routes is probably solid 5.11d. I find it still to be strenuous after many, many trips up this route. Turn the corner on the left above the crack on Peer Pressure for about 5.12a and enter a short, right-facing dihedral with a good chance to chill. The top of the dihedral segues into a wide stemming problem on smears and poor feet for another 5.12a section. This is very well bolted and offers little chance for a fall, so just focus on keeping the smears working. Chase up to a small roof with an in-obvious solution and a stretch of 5.11, four more clips, and the anchor. Three stars for the varied climbing overall, the continuity, and the largely excellent rock.
Protection
QD only. This 100 foot route needs 13 to 14 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 m rope is mandatory unless you are climbing on double ropes. Caution: the route is 100 feet from the anchor to the starting ledge, not to the ground!!
The most difficult moves on this route for me involved moving around the corner above the crack, with a difficult clip and weird, reachy moves...what was my problem? Even on TR this section felt quite hard, more challenging than the stemming/slab bit higher above the ledge rest and quite a bit burlier than the crack section, IMHO. Anyone have any tips for this part? Thanks.
Good tight turns with a hint of drop knee makes the reaches seem casual. Just don't do it face on - burns way too much energy better spent on the 16 oz curl.
This is a truely great sport climb. Long, great position, and a fun variety of climbing. You get a bit of everything on this one. The left traverse after the crack start is a bit intimidating, but is well protected. Sort of a faith filled toss to a sidepull of unknown size. The exit of the shallow dihedral was certainly the crux for me, thin and strenuous. The only exception I would make to the description above is that if the crack section was in a more traditional area it would probably be considered 5.10.
If this thing is 11d, then "Garret's Revenge" really is 11a....
Awesome climb!
By adampeters From: Golden, Colorado Dec 25, 2007 rating: 5.12a/b
Ole sandbaggin' Mabe, this thing is surely not 11d, ole boy. I felt like the grade was fair at a/b, don't let ole Mabe trick you on this one. It is still a great route, get on it.
By WiledHorse From: NoGo Dec 29, 2007 rating: 5.11d
Ok, Peterman. 12a in the Book. Woot!
By adampeters From: Golden, Colorado Jan 7, 2008 rating: 5.12a/b
Haha, thanks for meeting me halfway, I was concerned.
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