Lauren having fun cruising up the flake. don't dro...
Description
Air Head is the first route on the large ledge system that sits below the great dihedral of The Highlands crag, to the right of Peer Pressure. The climbing starts right at a single belay bolt and ascends a short wall for several clips before taking on the obvious, large, flake system. Follow the flake to the chain anchor for some moderate but very enjoyable climbing movement. The overall climbing is more like 5.9 than 5.10. A single hard move past the first bolt delivers the crux right away. Stay on your feet, pay attention, and pick off a nice pitch that is well protected. Air Head provides a nice warm-up for the harder climbs off the ledge. I'd go with a star for the position, the big flake feature, and the overall good rock.
Protection
QD only. This 70 ft route needs only 7 or 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Loose Rock
Addendum: this route is and has been particularly known for its loose rock. Belayers, climbers, and bystanders beware.
The move off the deck is not hard, but the free fall potential onto the ledge below hightens your attention. The crux seems to be between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. My partner so delicately clipped the 3rd before the move somehow; maybe he dislocated his shoulder momentarily, threw his arm and draw toward the bolt while standing on his toe ends and retracted back into normalicy to continue the climb. I think it is easier to make the move and then clip while the bolt is within easy reach. The rest of the climb is a cruise with lots of opportunity to play with the flake / arete. Really cool anchor chains although watch the rope as you lower; I seem to remember a couple of sharp edges higher up.
The sharp edges are only a factor if you're clipped to the belay bolt. There is good clearance if you stand down and away from the rock. Good anchor for TR on Gear Head as well.
Saw some people pull off a big ass rock on this thing yesterday. Pulled it from the flake system, I all actuality it probably made the route even cleaner and therefore nicer:)
I knocked a large rock off today and it nearly destroyed a few people at the base, another good reason for a helmet. (And to WATCH your children if they're runnin' wild.) Some of the rock on this route is real crumbly, I barely weighted it with my foot but that was enough. For the most part, it is solid and fun.
The Highlands aka Highlander
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