Skimbleshanks 

Bit of Warning: About two weeks ago Mark Rolofson informed that bolt three on this route had been cut but not removed. I replaced this hanger on 7/26/2001. The hanger was not cut, it had been shot through with a .22 caliber rifle. So the warning here is that some of the folks shooting from across the creek also shoot at the climbing routes. Watch out; this hanger would never have held a fall.

I just did this route as a warm up yesterday and upon reaching the anchor, I noticed that the left hand bolt has lost rock around its left side. There is about 1 inch of the shaft exposed. I don't know if the rock was broken off by a bullet, hammer or by itself. Nevertheless, it should be inspected by the folks who know the area the best. Just thought you should know.

I'll try to get this repaired ASAP. When we ran the route a week ago to replace the shot hanger, I did not (sic) notice anything wrong at the top. The anchor has always been bomb proof, so perhaps more vandalism has been afoot.

Well, we have a problem here. On 8/7/01 Nevada Montagu and I replaced this anchor. Like the third bolt on this route, the anchor on the left side had been shot. The bullet track is evident on the bottom side of the hanger, the rock surrounding the bolt blown completely away. This bolt would have possible held body weight, possibly not. Once again, the bullet trajectory suggests, to my novice eye, being fired on the horrizontal (line up the bullet track on the hanger with the impact site on the rock). A good vantage point would be from across the creek, on the water pipe line, and this is what the alignment points to. The pipe line is 400 yards from impact and on the level. Completely ripping through a stainless steel hanger from 400 yards would indicate a rifle with .223 or .222 power, and this is consistent with the hole in the hanger from the the third clip. This would indicate a high powered hunting rifle with telescopic sighting since the hangers are completely invisible from even much shorter distances. Importantly, Catslab is privately owned. The owner lives in New York and has slated the area for a 24 unit housing development; he would be only too happy to shut down the climbing. Furthermore, there is a resident squatter living around the bend from Catslab, who spent considerable time watching us climb, he may or may not be suspect. Climbers need to be aware that hangers and anchors may be unsound on any route on Catslab. We also need to address the problem of shooting at the protection system for these, and perhaps other, climbing routes. However, simply running to the police is likely to get the crag shut down permanently. If you have a good idea that might help solve this problem, send it in.

Does anyone know what the regulations are for shooting weapons in the canyon? --In general. I understand that the area near Catslab is privately owned--so open season I guess; but I'm wondering about the meander on the North side of Tunnel 6 and the parking area for the Wall of the 90's. I've heard many shots near tunnel 6 and seen a bunch of spent shotgun shells and bullet casings. Also, a couple weekends ago I was on Hot Stuff when a couple archers showed up and spent a good hour shooting foam targets with compound bows right in the parking area--shooting towards the base of the rock. They seemed skilled and I didn't think it possible for a deflected arrow to reach us, high above, but still: a little unsettling.

You only have to be 50 feet from the center line of the road to shoot a firearm, or weapon. Not very far huh. Brett Boyd

All the bolts were good and the route is excellent. I think the 5.8 grade is a little stiff though. Careful with a 60m rope on the rap down. If you stay to the left you should be fine. . .but it was close! I didn't get shot, nor did I fall. But there were some lively little billies drinking beer by the "No Trespassing" signs.

Very fun moves throughout the climb. Make sure to bring a long sling for the 2nd(?) to last bolt on the far right. Knot your ends if rapping w/ a 60m rope.

Long slabby climb with some good positive holds on the way up. Be careful pulling on the quartz. Good ledge on the left of the anchors to rig the rappel. Use two ropes.

Excellent route, especially for first time leaders. Very well protected and do-able with a 60m. Just tie a knot on the end.

I agree with all the above comments. Last climbed here 7/21/08 and most of the routes seem in good condition. No one shot at us nor was their evidence of neglect to the hangers or anchors. Good line, some jugs, some crimps, mini-roof, it's got it all.