Mike Davis just below the anchor on The New Pollut...
Description
The route is technically at the Monkey House, which is slightly above and to the left of the wall of the nineties about 100ft. Start the route from on top of a short, 4th class ledge. The route is short, powerful, and overhanging. Every move is difficult and interesting to decipher. The rating is solid, especially as a key hold has broken, yielding even less purchase than before. Have fun but bring an attentive belayer, especially for the attention-grabbing moves between the slightly run-out 2 and 3 bolts.
Protection
The route is only 3 bolts long with a 2 bolt anchor. However, the belayer should certainly clip himself into the single bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb.
gregg - Killer route. You can actually belay from the ground, if the leader clips a lond draw in the "belay anchor" first, giving this a better lead. Have a good time.
First, I would like to thank you for putting up this site. I think you have done a great job in doing so. But I am wondering why you do not add pictures of the walls and routes? unless I am an idiot and do not know how to access them. If I am mistaken please let me know. much Thanks! super J
Today I finally bagged this route, my enemy for some time now. Very seldom will you find more solid, continuous climbing packed into one route. As aforementioned, a hold broke just above the second bolt. Here, I feel, is the technical crux- tossing from the crappy, right side pull to a small crimp sidepull with your left hand. I fell after making this move on redpoint three times, twice running out of gas with my hand an inch shy of the finishing jug. This is a 12c you can sink your teeth into, and despite hating the route from time to time, I highly recommend it.
Upon re-reading my comment, I realized how stupid I sound. I think I meant to say something about the 'solid, continuous climbing...' particularly for such a short route. If this only continued for another 7 bolts or so it would be killer! Thanks to Gregg for such a good addition to the wall.
Wall of the 90s
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