Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Dog House
Show routes:
Select route...
Big Dog 
Black Dog 
Dog Breath 
Dog Run 
Fiddler on the Woof 
Hot Dog 
Li'l Dog 
Mighty Dog 
Snoopy 

Fiddler on the Woof 

5.12a

   

FA: ???
Type: Sport, Chipped
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 336 page views

Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Fiddler


Description 

This route is way overhung and powerful, with fun moves. However the disappointing use of manufactured holds on this route warrants the single star rating (although these holds are bomber). This is the second route from the right side of the overhang, and ascends the steep lip using an obvious drilled slot on the face. The rating on this was initially 12c/d, but the consesus seems to be that it is actually 12a. Consider it a gym route and it will be fun and worth the effort.


Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



Add Comment Comments on Fiddler on the Woof
Show which comments
By Nate Weitzel
Aug 2, 2001

I agree that this is a fun route that would not exist sans carved holds. However, it compares with Slammer at the Wall of Justice in difficulty and also is similar to Big Dog. However the transition back to the natural holds is not 12c if you dial in the feet well. Maybe we are splitting hairs in the distinction between 12a/ 12b, and also 12b /12c. Either way, when I climbed the route, the moves didn't feel harder than 12a/b.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2001

5.12a ?

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
Jul 18, 2002

This was another chipping discussion from long ago, I just moved it to features athttp://www.climbingboulder.com/resources/features/editorials>>>>>

Myke

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 7, 2004
rating: 5.12b

Without intending to bust open a now well worked discussion about drilling and chipping, I thought the movement through the roof was really fun. Big muscle moves on a big roof. What is done is done, so if you enjoy pulling big moves on jugs with limited approach and on good solid rock, Fiddler offers up a good option with some fun climbing.

By Darren Mabe
From: Goulden, CO
Dec 13, 2005

Rating: 5.fun