The warm-up route for the wall. There are a variety of sequences for the crux, some make it significantly harder. Not the best route on the wall, but a decent route with a few interesting moves.
Protection
Four bolts, two bolt (chains) anchor. The first two bolts of the route have old, thin loooking hangers, however when the climbing gets hard, the bolts get better.
Terrible warm-up. Awkward climbing to a hard one-move crux. Suck it up and do Monkey Wrench which has about three real sloper moves and is more even in difficulty
I would have to disagree about the warm up. This route can be done with good moves, no awkwardness, if the correct beta sequence is discovered. If you are pulling a super hard move at the end, keep thinking because you are using the incorrect holds. Pretty much everything up there is chalked, but that doesn't mean you should use all of those holds!!! Monkey Wrench on the other hand is purely an awkward and weird route.
The horn beta is what I use, and that is why it feels easier since I can skip those nasty little crimps. I hated the route until I figured this beta out!
Based on your wingspan you may be average, although if one looks at your climbing resume, it would be difficult to assign the words average to any aspect f your climbing.
Having done every route on this end of the crag now, I agree with the coward. It's not a great warm-up. In fact, it doesn't seem any easier than the 12s. But maybe that's because I always end up campusing the last moves!
Anarchy Wall
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