Short but stout. This is a slightly overhung route with somewhat powerful moves and not much of a rest. I won't divulge the beta, but know that it's not just an overhang haul - it requires some careful balance.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks. Third bolt is drawn incorrectly in the Rolofson guidebook; you can't see it from the ground, but it's just over the lip of the ledge. To prevent horrendous abrasion of your rope, clean on rappel.
Starting low off the ground to the right of the starting ledge and the first bolt improves the route. A series of tricky moves off the ground gets to the first bolt and makes the route longer and more continuous.
since this route is so short i didn't feel like this climb deserved a 5.12 rating. the juggy two finger pocket out left is an amazing hold!
By chris deulen From: Duluth, MN Aug 13, 2004 rating: 5.12a
Just because it's short doesn't mean it's not difficult. No one sandbagged "The Fly" because it was two bolts. I think a boulder rating would be more accurate in this circumstance (though still quite high ball); in this case probably V4/V4+.
By Matt McMurray From: Vegas Baby! Apr 20, 2006 rating: 5.12a
Length schmength... size doesn't matter... err... What I mean is that you better have the moves and stamina if you want to get off this route... 12a! ;-)
This was the first 12a that I actually sent. It seems to be a good one for breaking into the grade. Not as glorious as it could be, being as short as it is. But whatever, it's still a 12a in my book. The setting up to go to the pocket and the tricky mantle certainly warrant the grade.
Primo Wall
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