Super, super fun route... but word to the wise: don't use a heel-hook at the top to pull for the anchors, unless you absolutely have it. I ended up peeling off first time and gouged my ankle out, had to stay out of the climbing shoes for a good month. Reach far right, just past the bolt, for the well-chalked jugs at the crux. Very juggy route, a good pump.
Heel Hook to clip anchors...To all would be ascenders out there, the action is over after the first bolt...everything else is a nice positive jug haul..including nice jugs from which to make the anchors..which are open shuts. I agree with Peter though..very fun but too short. Peace.
By Caleb Phillips From: Boulder, CO Jul 20, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Might consider stick-clipping the first bolt. The hardest move (IMHO) is at the first bolt and the fall (on big sharp rocks) would suck. It definitely psyched me out.