Woop-Woo!! Another really fantastic Clear Creek route. The first eight bolts are smooth slab climbing, with some high 10 / low 11 moves. Then get ready for the real fun - step out of the comfy little corner, and make some balancey moves through two bolts to earn the nice view at the anchors. A highly recommended route.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 bolt (red coldshuts) lowering anchor.
This route feels about a grade easier than the rating. Maybe 11a if you're generous. Nevertheless, a fun, quality line.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002 rating: 5.10d
Agree that it is definitely easier than the rating but the psychological crux is definitely moving off those good holds right and firing to the top. 10d. Good route.
For Clear Creek ratings: 10d. In Eldo this would be a low 10, I'm convinced. Did this route day before yesterday, did King's X in Eldo (10d) today. Even considering the gear differences, the moves on Kings X are almost a full grade harder.
Regardless of rating, this is a fun route with graceful moves at the top. "Thumbs up!"
By Drew Allan From: Denver Aug 3, 2003 rating: 5.10c
I think this route helps define the Reefer Madness grade. As stated above, Recovery is a full number grade easier (i.e. 10c). There is a little trick move mid-height; otherwise, it is easy climbing to the corner. The corner itself is only several moves before reaching a bomber hold just before the anchor ledge. You are well protected here, so the scare factor is minimal. Good, fun climb.
With that being said, RM feels a letter grade or two harder than Recovery. RM moves are trickier and more continuous. I think RM comes in at 10d/11a no matter what your height. To reduce RM to mid-10 in turn reduces Recovery to 10a, which I don't think it is.
Harder if you're tall, I get all cruched up after exiting the corner, where the good holds used to move though the crux are down low and awkward. 6'4" here and this feels .11b, while Reefer is like .10+.
Wall of the 90s
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