Deuces Wild 

Way Fun Route with cool exposure at the top - but the mid-point belay does not seem to be in line with the natural line of holds. I found myself making way thin moves left to reach the belay. I was able to protect this with a small Friend, but without gear I would have been sketched. I'd recommend doing it as 1 long pitch.

Just an update on the fixed pins on the roof. There is now only one angle in the roof, which is really not necessary--a yellow alien fits just above. The other pin is lower in the dihedral before the roof and the eyes are smashed halfway closed anyway.

This first pitch is beautiful I thought, clean strong moves above pro that make you think, but not enough to really screw yourself up. The first three or four moves off the ledge are kind of balancy - a fall here could be quite painful.

I tried to climb at Clear Creek yesterday using only the beta from this website (the first time I've ever tried to do that!). This sounded like one of the best routes at High Wire, but unfortunately this description doesn't even give a hint for where the route is!

Charles, Two thoughts. I'll try to get the numbering organized. Also, some of us like to call this sector the Queen City Slab to differentiate it from High Wire proper that is on the other side of the road and hosts, amongst others, the Highwire route.

Linking the pitches makes for a very enjoyable long lead with 17 bolts.

Climbed this on Sunday - I agree that you should string the pitches together! My climbing partner was dying on that first belay, then I was dying waiting for her to rappel down to me! Also, I'm not sure even a 70m rope would get you to the ground on rappel from the top belay! Tie 2 ropes together or rap to the first belay. Be careful pulling your rope, too - our got stuck on a horn on the way down! Great climbing, though! Bring about 20 draws - it's long!

The joy of this climb is its length. I've always thought the mid point two bolt anchor was just there as a rap station anyway. Maybe because I've never been able/wanted to climb to the anchor directly as it sits lurking at you from a blank spot on the wall, anyway, it seems way left of the route and low as a mid point belay - even out of reach to clip as you climb past. It's a little run out climbing past it on the right, but I don't think dangerous.

Really nice face climbing to finish - all in all a great route for the grade. Climb it in one, rap it in two.

If you don't have enough draws to make it all the way to th top in one. I found the best way to get to those sketchy anchors is to climb up past them and then traverse over on the desent ledge. It's pretty easy but also kinda sketchy.

Great route. We climbed it as one pitch. Better bring a lot of "Draws" :)

I thought the section right below the top (second anchor) was the hardest part of the 2nd pitch.

Pitch 1 goes at harder than a Clear Creek 10a, at least compared to other climbs of that grade in the Canyon (e.g. Ace in the Hole, Jellicle Cats, MacCavity). I would say the pitch 1 crux is getting to the anchors. To make the anchors you have to traverse left from a good stance across a face with little in the way of hands or feet. The section between the first and second bolt at the start of the pitch is balancy, but at least there are holds, particlarly if you stay left of the bolts. If you are doing both pitches you might want to just skip the first pitch anchor.

There is loose block midway on pitch 2. Be careful not to use it as a hold.

Agree the anchors for P1 are in a fairly silly spot. Moving them 3' to the right would put them more in line with the natural holds, still at a relatively convenient place to belay from, and still line the rope up well. The bolts are looking old anyway... maybe it's time for someone to move them?

I've always done this climb as one pitch, and usually traverse over to the mid-point anchors, clip a draw, and keep going. Yesterday I brought a few small cams and placed a 0.5 C4 in the crack to the right of the anchors and kept going up. I traversed over slightly higher up and felt like it was a much more natural line. Just my 2 cents.

Considering the heavy star-rating in Darren's book, I thought this route was rather a shitpile. One 10ish move right off the ground followed by a ropelength of blase climbing. Do it as one pitch to minimize time wasted on the affair, or don't do it at all. Via Comatose is much better.

I'm gonna have to completely disagree with bjorn, I think this is a great route with very good rock. Doing this in one pitch is highly recomended.

As Adam mentioned, you can bring a couple mid-sized cams (or just run it out) and continue straight up the crack, then traverse back left higher up and avoid the pesky mid anchor fiasco.

Yes, the climbing eases greatly in the middle, but the climbing is still of high quality, and one of my favorite moderate long pitches in the canyon.
Cheers

A loose block below the small roof on P1 is marked. If you avoid it, it makes your final moves to the anchor a fun and balancy step-across. It is out of the way of the rope line, so still relatively safe to climb underneath and past it.

It's a fun route, maybe they can't all be Topo Ocean crimp & friction fests, Bjorn, but so what; the last section gives a good set of moderate moves to finish out.