First pitch comes in at fun 5.10c. The second to last bolt line on the right side of the crag. A high first bolt up some slabby stuff sets you up. Follow the bolt line as the route turns steeper, then through an overhanging bulge. The second pitch wasn't done by us, but it follows the right bolt line, and includes a "tricky crux bulge" just before the final anchor. From these top anchors you can try "Too!", by scrambling up to the anchors up and right.
Protection
2 pitches. 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then six more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 105' from the top bolts, so bring a 60m or rappell in two pitches. Very well protected.
The first pitch is amazing, hard to believe that routes like this exist naturally. All I can say is Jugs !! The second pitch is not really that enjoyable, although the 'bulge' as mentioned is certainly the crux and continues almost to the anchors. Stay to the left of the bolts towards the top to get to the anchors, or you will get into very dirty rock. The second pitch is a little dirty to start with as well, and watch fromabove if there are people on 'Too'. DEFINENTLY do the first pitch.
The second pitch is good too. The dirty climbing is pretty easy to avoid and the corner has great moves on thought provoking holds. I was able to reach the ground with a single 60m rope from the top. I'd say the second pitch is probably 11- however...
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 18, 2003 rating: 5.11b
Nice [route] overall, best as a single pitch, but here and there you might want to use a 2' sling to avoid drag that way, esp at the first bolt anchor.
Nice long route with a few distinct cruxes.
I think 11b is fair. Bryson, your height/arm length probably made the 2nd pitch crux reach a little easier. I had to "pop" for it quite a bit and since I couldn't get it static, I didn't know what the hold was like. Pretty hard that way.
1st might be the most classic pitch on the whole wall. super sweet and juggy. absolutely beautiful climb. mid ten just for the top overhang. 10b or 10c.
Belayers be warned!!!! The flake/crux holds groan on the bulge near the top of pitch1 after the 5th bolt. It may be only a matter of time before someone pulls this square meter of rock off.
Little Eiger
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