Located across the creek from the Wall of the 90s and just downstream of the Mission Wall this cliff hosts 8 one pitch sport routes up to 100' in length. Some of the harder routes are reminiscent of Anarchy Wall. There are also a few easier routes on the right side. This crag stays in the sun in winter up to about 3:00 PM adding another viable cold weather crag. In the summer the wall is in the shade in the late afternoon, an option if Wall of the 90s gets too hot. This rock also offers a nice break from the highway noise.
Left to right: A. Kick Their Ass, 12a B. Take Their Guns, 12b C. Bunker Buster, 12b D. Shock & Awe, 12c E. Towelhead, 11b F. M1A1, 10d G. MOAB, 11c H. Bagmom, 9+
Getting There
Cross the cable at the south end of the Wall of the 90s and then head downstream along the old roadbed. Irok is up the steep hill on the right and is identified by a prominent left slanting crack across the middle of the formation. A small cairned climbers trail leads steeply up hill to the crag.
One pertinent comment about the approach to this area. The tyrolean to get across the creek is a braided steel cable. What will that mean to you? Basically, if you are planning to cross the cable, and you are using the standard quickdraw/harness method, the carabiner you use will be all but destroyed between the trip to the crag and the trip back. Always remember: steel beats aluminum, particularly when you add friction.
Suggestions? Either wade it, use a pulley, or try a steel carabiner if you can find one. It will probably still get beat up, but will not damage your oh so expense quickdraw setup. One more point to consider is that you might want to bring a set of gloves. Although there wasn't any blood involved, the steel cable does chew on the hands a bit.
As far as the rest of the crag is concerned, I will let the jury decide. Approach with patience and care, and keep your eyes far uphill, or you will find the "Punk Rock" area. If you don't walk uphill for a least 15 minutes, you are most likely not at Irok.
Unfortunately, whenever rope tyroleans are established over Clear Creek and other areas they don't last long. Hopefully, the steel will stay awhile. A good, easy to obtain tool for use on the cable is a quick link, preferably one of the thicker ones. These are often scavenged off of bail points (not anchors!!!), or can be found at about any hardware store. Since they're steel, they last a lot longer than a biner and slide reasonably along the cable. Anything that is used will release metal chips, so it's probably a good idea to wear glasses & use a sling long enough to keep the device away from your face.
I added belay anchors at the bases of routes 6,7,8 This will help bagmom's start.The wire across the river has been retensioned on 10/18/03 and clamps were added.
Is that why it was reclamped? Hmmmm. I think that if anything the tyrol would be safer if it wasn't so tight. It would put less stress on the anchors. The clamps do help with equalization, however.
We went up to Irok yesterday and had the following advice for future parties. In general, we had a great time, loved most of the routes, and are grateful to the developers. M1A1 and the 12s were particularly good. First, the place is very scenic with no view of the high way and just the riven way below and the steep hills around. Second, most of the routes have some loose rock as one would expect on a new formation. The loose rock on the twelves was low down, so the leader needs to be careful for the first couple of bolts. On the right side of the cliff (M1A1 and further right) the loose rock is high on the routes and is potential pretty dangerous. The belay station on the ramp is in the path of fire_as we learned_so you want to wear helmets and perhaps have the belayer move to keep out of the direct line. Third, all the grades on the topo seemed reasonable and consistent. Some comments on specific climbs: Bagmom: a bit stiff for the grade with a low crux and high first bolt MOAB: very good climb with a moderate start and challenging roofs up high M1A1: excellent climb that slowly gets harder and steeper, a better warm-up than BagmomTowelhead: very loose rock at the low crux roof, the only bad climb on the cliff. All the 12s had some loose rock at their starts, but: Shock and Awe: this is a superb, steep, climb with long pulls and a suprisingly hard top out Bunker Buster: the first thirty feet provide great, sustained climbing, the second half of the climb is a cruise but still fun Take their Gas: another great climb, be sure to swerve right at the second bolt or the climb becomes 12+/13-, even with the swerve this felt a notch stiffer than Bunker Buster Kick their Ass: a very good climb but not as classic as the other 12s with a short crux and perhaps a touch soft for the grade
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