Creek Side may or may not be a good name for this wall. Nothing has been published that I have found and no name has been ascribed to the crag. Now, this seems odd inasmuch as Creek Side is largest expanse of continuous stone in Clear Creek - bigger than the Mission Wall by at least 100 ft and more continuous than The Little Eiger. The crag towers over 400 ft above the stream, faces depressingly due East, and sees virtually no climbing. It is dark, cold, and windy most of the day except for a spell in the morning when it gets full sun. To make matters worse, the crag appears to be composed of fractured, friable, appalling stone. However, in the 60s, Layton Kor and colleagues punched up a mixed route that exited a large open-book dihedral at the 200 ft mark. This line has been repeated occasionally since then, and at least one fatality has been reported from the 70s. So, Creek Side is not without some history. Furthermore, at least two old lines have been climbed on the crag's West flank. One runs 50 or 60ft to a pine tree/rap station. Another wanders the entire length of the west wall, but good luck trying to replicate the line - it has no obvious distinguishing characteristic. In 2002 a five pitch line was installed that punches up on the left side of the East facing open-book dihedral. The name of the game here is exposure, with a capital E. More importantly, the large confusion of irregularities has, in fact, turned up some terrific, bullet-proof stone. It appears that the time has come to see what this big puppy holds.
Getting There
Park as for the Catslab/Dog Wall just West of tunnel five. Hop over the guardrail as though heading for the Dog Wall but follow the creek West for 250 yards. This will access the East side of the crag only.
Guppy is the right of two routes that start from the belay pod above the small pine on the south-facing Creek Side Wall, east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from cottonwood tree (see comments under Creek Side Area description). Step around the tree and chase several bolts up to a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. Pull right around the dihedral and continue up past a small roof, and finish up the black rounded arete and the anchors. Lowe...[more]
We did the 5 pitch route described here on July 28 but dogged the last two pitches. Whats the story?
By Darren Mabe From: Goulder, CO Mar 29, 2005 Gear Alert
NEW ROUTES!
Four or five new routes at the lower Creekside wall right off of the water East (climbers right) of the Brennivin Roof.
Routes (starting from right to left):
Crackside* -- 5.9+ (one move wonder), mixed gear/3 bolts, SR to #3Camalot, 85', original route traverses right (crux) after arching crack ends, to pick up another hand crack, ends on ledge with two bolt rap anchor.
Crackside Direct (var.)* -- 10a mixed/4 bolts, SR to #1Camalot, 115', climb above where crack ends, and beeline to the finger crack above and traversing bolts to shared rappel anchors of Guppy.
Guppy* -- 5.8, 13 bolts, 115'
Fish and Chips* -- 5.9+, 14 bolts, 115'
Rhett Wench* -- P1. 5.6 5 bolts, 70' P2. 5.11c/d 12 bolts 80-90' Climbs the left black slab, grey shield capped by two massive roofs.
APPROACH Beta:Dirt pull-off before guard rail at east side of tunnel 6, CDOT doesn't like you parking on the road next to the guard rail. These routes on this section of wall is accessed only by a tyrolean traverse! Tyrol starts 25 feet up from a cottonwood (the warm up route! -- 5th class, jugs the whole way) directly to a pod belay at small pine (AKA "Booty Snatcher Belay") at start of Fish and Chips (left) and Guppy (right). Consider bringing some jumars or tiblok. Three bolt traverse (5.2) right to the belay of Crackside routes. OR Fixed( !!! ) handline 15' left to the belay of Rhett Wench. All belays are bolted.
DESCENT Beta:YOU WILL NEED A 70M ROPE OR TWO ROPES to safely rap Guppy or Fish and Chips. If you are careful, when you pull the rope, it shouldn't fall into the drink. You will eventually have to end up back to the pod belay where you will be able to tyrol back.
OTHER NOTES:traffic noise!! consider radios.70meter rope or two ropes for rappels/jumar makes life easier on the tyrol (better yet, a petzl traxion..)helmet, camera -- very cool location/perspective!
I have some hand drawn topos if you really want/need them. Give me a call and i will be happy to share them.
Creek Side
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