In the summer of 1993 Alan Nelson and I add five routes to this East facing crag to provide a shady place to climb. The five routes here were simul-drilled in about one day, so the guilt for any bad bolts can be shared by both of us. It is unfortunate that the crag sees very little action since the routes turned out to be fun and well protected. The rock had some friable surface in 1993 but this has cleaned up nicely. Numbering begins on the left with Free Enterprise (#1). Climbing runs from 5.10 to 5.12a with interesting moves through the roofs.
Getting There
Capitalist Crag is located on the East side of tunnel 3 and the easiest approach is to park as you would for the Wall of the 90s and hike the 300 yards along the road. The obvious wall with a roof in the middle is Capitalist Crag.
I agree with Richard on the quality of the routes here. I climbed 3 of them yesterday and found them to be quite nice. The place still needs some cleaning (9 years later...) and this supports the fact that very few people climb here.
One note of caution!!!! There are a set of bolts at the top of the two most Western routes, a 5.10a and a nice 5.10c, the bolts are very far apart (due to the poor nature of the rock inbetween them I am assuming.) I would suggest rappeling off of these instead of being lowered, the forces are too great. If you intend on having an extended topropping session just bring a couple of slings and some lockers to decrease the angle.
The anchors Chris refers to now have chains. Thanks to whomever put those on, they were definitely needed.
Yesterday I went to climb Lunchmoney and tried the two 10's - Hours for Dollars and Get Rich. I was a bit apprehensive at first, thinking I should not bother with them since they only had one star in the guide. However, I would agree with the above comments. These are decent routes , and with the addition of Lunchmoney this may become a more popular area. It looks like there may be a few more decent lines here.
I discovered Capitalist Crag yesterday evening. A good place to climb that is out of the shade. Lunch Money was fun along with a route directly left of it. I dislodged several small rocks while climbing here, as the rock is dirty/rotten in places but worthy of another return.
Climbed here yesterday, agree with the above comments, these routes are much better than they're getting credit for. Long and sustained, high quality rock with a good setting. I didn't come across too much loose rock, the routes seem to be cleaning up nicely.
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