AKA: Pete's Wicked Cave. The Sex Cave is another super rock for those out there climbing in the upper 5.12 to 5.13 range. There are three routes that grace this ceiling crag, the easiest goes at 5.12d, and the hardest at 5.13b/c. All the routes here are excellent, and require some tricky moves to pull through the cruxes. Most of the draws are fixed, so all one needs is a rope, maybe two draws just in case, and lots of finger power. This crag is a good crag for spring, summer and fall, but winter finds it in the shade and quite cold on all but the warmest days. It does provide some shade for summer and would make a good hot weather crag.
Getting There
The crag is located about 1/2 mile past tunnel three, and is on the north side of the road, slightly out of site from the car. Look for a large pullout on the south side, just past the crag, that has a very large black boulder in it. Park here and walk maybe 50 feet back toward tunnel three to locate a bad trail that leads uphill to the north. Look for a cave with lots of draws hanging from it. Approach time is less than 5 minutes.
I thought the three routes mentioned were too hard for me, so I drilled a couple of holes for my fingers to pull the moves. Wow! Now that I can climb that hard stuff I feel pretty cool. The routes felt that the grades that were posted didnt change even with my new holds. I think i am going to bring my chizel and make a couple side pulls too. It looks like we can squeeze in some more lines in this cool looking cave.BAD ASS
AC, do you even give a rat's fat ass about something called ethics? You're talking about drilling holes and chiseling side pockets. If this is honestly how climbing is becoming, I might as well just bite the bullet. This is really awful. If something is can't be climbed by you, leave it be. Someone else might give it the old college try and end up with a pretty cool route. Hell, it might be too hard for you, but it gives you something to work for. If everyone on God's green earth drilled and chiseled and hammered their way up a route, we would have no challenges or competition. Everyone would climb at the same level they were two years ago. Take ethics into serious consideration before you pick up that drill or hammer and chisel next time. It might just make you a better cli
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