AKA: Pete's Wicked Cave. The Sex Cave is another super rock for those out there climbing in the upper 5.12 to 5.13 range. There are three routes that grace this ceiling crag, the easiest goes at 5.12d, and the hardest at 5.13b/c. All the routes here are excellent, and require some tricky moves to pull through the cruxes. Most of the draws are fixed, so all one needs is a rope, maybe two draws just in case, and lots of finger power. This crag is a good crag for spring, summer and fall, but winter finds it in the shade and quite cold on all but the warmest days. It does provide some shade for summer and would make a good hot weather crag.
Getting There
The crag is located about 1/2 mile past tunnel three, and is on the north side of the road, slightly out of site from the car. Look for a large pullout on the south side, just past the crag, that has a very large black boulder in it. Park here and walk maybe 50 feet back toward tunnel three to locate a bad trail that leads uphill to the north. Look for a cave with lots of draws hanging from it. Approach time is less than 5 minutes.
This is an obvious linkup. Climb the first crux of Stone Cold Modern with its chipped pockets and over-the-head trickery, then finish with the crux of Head Like A Hole. This is a bit easier than the original straight up finish but is much more enjoyable overall!...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I thought the three routes mentioned were too hard for me, so I drilled a couple of holes for my fingers to pull the moves. Wow! Now that I can climb that hard stuff I feel pretty cool. The routes felt that the grades that were posted didnt change even with my new holds. I think i am going to bring my chizel and make a couple side pulls too. It looks like we can squeeze in some more lines in this cool looking cave.BAD ASS
This is the worst bolted cliff in the canyon. Don't waste your time.
By Matt Bolt From: Thuwal, Saudi Arabia May 3, 2009
There are a few established routes on the rock above the Sex Cave (one sport route that I found for sure). However, there are two sick splitter cracks in two separate right-facing dihedrals in the same area. I went up there to check them out today and one of them could possible be the best moderate crack in Clear Creek (off to thin hands). My question is, does anyone know if they have been climbed? The one I looked at closly was pretty dirty and definitely hasn't seen an ascent in the recent past. I plan on getting up there in the next week or so and sending them on gear, I was just wondering if it had been done before.
Near Pete's Wicked Sex cave is Rebel Wall. Sex Cave and Primo are very far apart.
By Matt Bolt From: Thuwal, Saudi Arabia May 5, 2009
So, my gumby nature is showing. By Sex Cave, what I meant was "NOMAD'S CAVE". Goes to show how often I tie in at crags with 12c/d warmups. However, if you look directly above the Nomad's Cave from the road, there are two distinct dihedrals. I'll try to post some photos on the Nomad page as soon as I get back up there.
I knew what you were talking about Matt, just checkin'. Was the sport route you were lookin at Mildage? this area of rock is a little sketch getting to from the left of the Primo warmups (above Nomad Cave). Have fun with your new route exploring and let us know how they turn out! Post pics!
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