BETA PHOTO: Mission Wall from Back to the 90's. The Ashtray is...
Description
The Mission Wall is a large dark presence in Clear Creek Canyon that sits just across the river from the Wall of The 90's. Facing North and East, the crag sees little action, and coupled with the present need to wade the creek is never likely to be very popular. However, the brooding presence of The Mission Wall in the winter takes on a much more alluring character in the heat of the summer when it can be the most inviting place in Clear Creek. The crag hosts some of the more difficult lines in Clear Creek and some of the longest. The rock is not overall the best, but the routes that have gone in are largely on very nice stone. Presently two long three pitch routes exist along with a two pitch line and several single pitch routes. Over the years, some powerful guns have established the major routes. Jimmy Surette, Steve Landin, Greg Purnell have all put up fine routes between 5.12 and middle 5.13. A few easier lines exist as well.
Getting There
The Mission Wall lies just West of tunnel two in Clear Creek Canyon. Parking can be had in the same spot used for The Wall of The 90's, that although once generous, has been recently reduced by the CDOT. Access to The Mission Wall has always been a problem. In a good year, the Tyrollean traverses remain in place long enough to get in some good climbing days on The Mission Wall. In a bad year, such as last year, they all get chopped. All of the half dozen Tyrolleans put in place by Greg Purnell in 2000 have been vandalized or chopped. Presently, we have no good answer for this dilemma.
Garrett's Revenge is a 3rd pitch variation to Gniess Roof that starts off the Ashtray Belay on the upper East (i.e. sunny) face of Mission wall. A nice variation when 'Billy the Kid' shuts you down. Climb Gneiss Roof to access the Ashtray (P1 5.11, 12 bolts -- P2 5.9+, 5 bolts ).P3: From the Ashtray, climb up and left onto a sloping ledge, pull over the tricky and difficult roof (crux) left of 'Billy the Kid'. The third bolt may be a diffi...[more]
This wall needs action, all y'all tired of climbing the canyon, go here! Bring a brush and help out. This wall is for you. Don't worry about geting wet, you will not have to worry about it, trust me.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Aug 8, 2002
Questions. There are at least 2 other lines on this crag that start from the ground. There are 4 lines left of the quartzite dike, Challenger, the left 3 of which are bolted. I understand from these descriptions that Billy is right of Gneiss route. The left two do not have anchors in the first 100'. Yet, the third route from the left has anchors about 90-100' up. So I guessing that is the Gneiss route. There is also a line with a pin and a bail sling just left of Challenger. Can anyone help out with what these are and what they are rated?
Also, that wire tyrolean really has tons of friction with biners and chews them up pretty well. So, use a less-prized biner and bring some power if you decide to use it. Wading worked well once the water level dropped.
If you plan on doing this tyrolean (or any other tyroleans on a steel cable) more than once or twice, you should get a pulley. It doesn't chew up as bad as a biner and the friction is minimal.A steel pulley would be best but it is hard to find the right kind (one that splits in the middle so you can get it on the cable). Standard climbing pulleys work well, although some wear will be evident.
The reason a cable was put in here is because everytime someone put up a rope, some joker would cut it down.
The first route to the left of Challenger is a well protected multi-pitch project that I started in the fall of 2001 (drilling on lead). The first pitch goes at 5.9+ and has about eight bolts and an anchor, the crux of the pitch goes over a 3 foot roof corner about half way up, the anchor is exactly 30 meters off the ground. The second pitch is only half complete and goes through a big roof at 5.11c then reaches a ledge. I and friends will complete this pitch very soon. Its a pretty cool move out the roof and on the lip is a nice flake just to the right of the bolt. Be careful with the flake it flexes a bit and is key to the climb. I hope to take this line all the way to the top of Mission Wall. Sorry to all who have had to bail from the top bolt of the unfinished second pitch.
Last weekend, I removed the phallic-looking boulder wedged in the horizontal right above the first belay of Gneiss Route and Billy. it didn't take much more than a few wiggles to send it on its way. hope no one minds. -dm
I wish I had seen these comments on the cable before doing the tyrolian because I pretty much ruied one of my favorite lockers :( We opted to wade on our way back, not too bad...
Does anyone have any information about the 3? 5.13/project routes on the overhanging prow atop the mission wall? Not that I'm going to be getting on them anytime soon, but I was just curious.
New route, Ride the Snake, provides quick and easy access to the Ashtray Belay and the following routes: Gneiss Roof, Billy the Kid, and Garrett's Revenge. (2 pitches of 5.9 starting left of Gneiss Route) Also new route, Rocket Man, provides clean and airy rap alternative from Surette Ledge (2 rappels: single rope, then double rope to the ground). The chains at the top of RM are obvious. Hell, they probably could even be seen from Golden.
[I am looking for any information on those hard routes. I most likely will not get on the either. I recently watched a new route get put in about 50 ft to the right of the thirteen project. This wall looks amazing and I would be willing to work with other climbers to get this wall established. There are many good lines that could be put up on this wall.]
I suggest that rapping Rocketman is the best option compared to Gneiss Route. 1) The first chain anchors of RM are very safe to access. (getting to the rap on GR is a tad more commiting) 2) 2 raps: one 70' rap, then one full 200' rap (two ropes!) 3) pulling ropes is very easy. (pulling ropes on GR is very strenuous). 4)anchors on RM are newer.
Even though it's possible to rap GR with one 70m rope, the amount of extra effort involved is not worth your weight savings by not bringing an extra tag line to rap RM.
Thanks for the responses re: rapping from Surette. Lazily, I was thinking we could just bring 1 cord up any of the routes, then do the first 70' rap on RM, then rap single line 200' to the ground, attach another cord for the second, etc. thereby avoiding the need to bring a trail line?
Went to the Mission Wall yesterday to climb Ride the Snake and found that there is a huge population of ticks at the base and surrounding area. Make sure to check yourself.
Sometime in the summer of 08 someone put slings all over the wall. Although this is a good gesture I am not sure it is in the best safety practice. There are slinged anchors that have the sling looped through standard bolt hangers, this is sketchy the life of these sling will not be long, due to the sharp angle they must make at the bolt hanger and we have all seen what happens to slings left out in the weather. Other slings are looped through directly through hangers on the routes to alleviate poor bolt placement, and I have the same concerns as above, but could be more sketchy due to dynamic falls. Again this is a good gesture and someone spent time and money doing this but I think it needs to be reworked with chains or rapid mallions between the hanger and the slings.
The only webbing on bolts I know of are on the anchors of P1 of Gneiss Route, anchors of P1 of Billy, and on the last bolt of Billy. I installed these over 4 years ago. the anchors could use chains. feel free to replace them, I never got around to doing it. The "cheater" sling on the last bolt of Billy is indeed pretty chewed up, but is nice to be able to clip before committing to the final jug. The jug is good, but if you blow it, would be a nasty fall. Feel free to replace that one, too.
Haven't been in the canyon lately. What other webbing on hardware is up there on Mission?
Re: Kevin's question on the tyrol: the steel tyrol is fixed and accepted by JCOS, and has been in place for almost 10 years.
Fun wall to climb on, long routes. Adventure sport climbing if you will. People climbing it should really consider wearing a helmet. There is a lot of loose rock on the wall. My partner's foothold pulled out and almost hit me. It was big enough to ruin the day in a bad way. Would not climb underneath anyone. No problem getting across the river (steel cable, bring pulley). Looking forward to going back.
The Mission Wall
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