Anarchy Wall Rock Climbing

This superb crag has a five minute approach and ultra clean rock. However, it is somewhat of a hardman's crag as the warm up climb for the wall goes at 5.11c. The climbing season at this crag is Spring, Summer, Fall, and it is recommended that you climb in the shade (summer until 1 pm) as the holds here tend to be slopey and non-positive. If it is too hot outside, greasing off of the holds becomes a real problem. Anarchy Wall has perhaps the best selection of quality 5.12 routes in the canyon including the test piece "Anarchitect" (5.12d). There are also a couple of easy 5.8-5.9 routes down the hill (to the south) from the Anarchy Wall that offer some moderate climbing. All of the routes here are protected by bolts. There are a few routes that have some runout moves and difficult clips so one should be comfortable climbing 5.12 moves if attempting these on lead. Setting up top-ropes is rather difficult (without leading the climb) and not recommended. There are two bolt lowering anchors at the top of each route. Routes range from 5 bolts to 10 bolts in length. Routes are listed from the left side of the wall to the right side.