Wall of the '90s

BETA PHOTO: Wall of the '90s.

Description 

A fantastic crag with a short, steep, somewhat slippery approach. A host of excellent climbs reside here, most being in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. The guidebook doesn't lie in saying that this is some of the best rock in the canyon. Refer Madness, Recovery, Wet Dream... climb any one of 'em and you'll agree! The climbs can be long here, but a single 60m rope will work for most; knot the ends if in doubt.

Getting There 

Get to US 6 (the wall is nearer the Golden end of the canyon). The crag is immediately west of Tunnel 2 (5.1 miles west of Tunnel 1). There is a sizeable pullout on the south side of the highway. There's plenty of room to park, but because of all the scree above, the closer you park to the base of the hill, the more likely you are to go home with a crater in your hood. Follow one of two paths up to the base of the wall. There are a few markers you can use to get oriented: On the right side of the wall, there is a large eye bolt at the base of Refer Madness. In the central region, there is a belay bolt at the base of Recovery & Foxy. Of the climbs on the left end, Hey Good Lookin' is the line that goes out the leftmost big roof crack.

L->R: 

A. Alone Time with my Banana, 6 PG-13, 1p, bolts.
B. Leftover Stuff, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Hot Stuff, 10, 1p, 135', bolts.
D. Pretty Woman, 10-, 1p, 95', bolts.
E. Hey Good Lookin'!, 11+, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Squeezing in a bit of Texas, 11-, 1p, TR.
G. Vixen, 11-, 1p, bolts.
H. Y2K, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
I. Slinky, 12+, 1p.
IH. Extension Goin' The Distance, 12+, 1p, 130', bolts.
J. Sweet Thing, 13, 1p, 140', bolts.
K. Recovery, 10+, 1p, ~100', bolts.
L. Foxy, 11 PG-13, 1p, <100', bolts.
M. Little Kitten, 10 PG-13, 1p, bolts.
above M. Slender Babe, 12+, 1p, bolts.
N. Curvaceous, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Wet Dream, 12-, 1p, 105', bolts.
P. Centerfold, 11-, 2p, 120', bolts.
Q1. Ten Digit Dialing, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q2. Reefer Madness, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above Q2. Porn Queen, 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.
RQ2. Stone Free, 11, 1p, bolts.
above R or Q2. Casual Stone, 11, bolts.
S. Casual Gods, 11, 1p, gear.
T. Back and Tan, 13-, 1p, bolts.
U. .30-06, 11, 1p, gear.
UV. Wiled Horses, 13-, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.
V. Roadrunner, 1p, gear.
W. Interstellar Overdrive, 13+, 1p, bolts.

The Strange Iron Handle, location?

The Classics

Featured Route For Wall of the '90s

Reefer Madness 5.11a  CO : Golden : ... : Wall of the '90s

Start at the giant eyebolt and head up to sweet, fairly sustained crimpy climbing. Some teeny holds, but you earn a nice rest in the middle of the hard stuff. A really fantasic 11a, but if you want to work even harder, the second pitch ("Porn Queen") is rated 11c/d....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Wall of the '90s Slideshow

Add Photo

Western Diamondback. He was very comfortable in t...

Wall of the '90s aka Roadrunner Buttress.