A fantastic crag with a short, steep, somewhat slippery approach. A host of excellent climbs reside here, most being in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. The guidebook doesn't lie in saying that this is some of the best rock in the canyon. Refer Madness, Recovery, Wet Dream... climb any one of 'em and you'll agree! The climbs can be long here, but a single 60m rope will work for most; knot the ends if in doubt.
Getting There
Get to US 6 (the wall is nearer the Golden end of the canyon). The crag is immediately west of Tunnel 2 (5.1 miles west of Tunnel 1). There is a sizeable pullout on the south side of the highway. There's plenty of room to park, but because of all the scree above, the closer you park to the base of the hill, the more likely you are to go home with a crater in your hood. Follow one of two paths up to the base of the wall. There are a few markers you can use to get oriented: On the right side of the wall, there is a large eye bolt at the base of Refer Madness. In the central region, there is a belay bolt at the base of Recovery & Foxy. Of the climbs on the left end, Hey Good Lookin' is the line that goes out the leftmost big roof crack.
Start at the giant eyebolt and head up to sweet, fairly sustained crimpy climbing. Some teeny holds, but you earn a nice rest in the middle of the hard stuff. A really fantasic 11a, but if you want to work even harder, the second pitch ("Porn Queen") is rated 11c/d....[more]
Best rock in the canyon? I halfway agree. That shield of rock where TDD and Reefer reside is infact beautiful and superb, but the rest is dirty and sometimes loose. Pitch one of Centerfold has many friable flakes and is a tad crumbly in places. Kitten, Vixen and Recovery are all a tad dirty (mostly cause it gets a lot of water runoff), though solid, as are the other routes in this sector.
Best rock I've been on is Reefer (btw, mid 10 if you're tall, 11 if you're short), but best continuous rock goes to Eiger or River Wall.
Has anyone been on or done the route that is listed as a 5.12? project up at the Monkey House that is between the 11c and 10d? Has this had a free ascent (I assume it has)? What is the grade guess? Sweet line that is much harder than it looks.
Anonymous... I have toproped the 5.12 line you speak of at the Monkey House. I think it is 5.12b. Near the end is some very difficult steep slab moves with some long reaches for not so positive crimps. I sandbagged my partner into leading it a while ago because I wanted to climb it... "hey, man, its only 12a, I think, give it a go, bolts are close!..."
I just recently had my draws stolen off Ten Digit Dialing, like in the past 4 or 5 days. Does anyone know anything that could help me get them back? I really need them. I won't be pissed off. I just want them back. Thanks.
We encountered a rattlesnake on the approach to Wall of the 90s yesterday, along the dirt path that leads away from the parking lot. I'd never heard of a rattlesnake in CCC before. Be careful!
Another Rattlesnake encounter.... Pissed one off last night on the upper trail down from the Wall of the 90s right where it crosses the recent rock slide. The snake was under the bushes/large rock, but then slid down the dirt towards us... exciting!
Wall of the 90s
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