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Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mudwall)
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Behind the Curtain 
DEFCON 1 
Horse and Pony Show, The 
Mudflap Girl 
Orangina 

Behind the Curtain 

5.12b PG13

   

FA: Josh Gross, Chris Van Leuven, Mike Schneiter, Katty Guzman, Lynn Sanson
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
Season: most seasons
Views: 382 page views

Submitted By: chris van leuven on Aug 21, 2009


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Josh Gross starting P3 (160 ft., 5.12b).


Description 

P1: 5.10, 100 ft. Pro small to 2.5", #5 Friend useful low. In your face off the deck. Overhanging.

P: 2 5.11b, 70 feet 1 each 0.4-0.5" optional. Crux is bolted, as is most of pitch.

P3: 5.12b, 160 ft. Not too much trad pro, generally green Aliens, C3s and up to 1.75". Steep! Cruxes throughout, including pumpy finish. Some cruxes are gear protected; including the roof (green Alien to 1.25").

No nuts.
"Nesting" placements recommended.


Location 

Grizzly Creek Wall, Glenwood Canyon, CO. Start 20 feet right of Horse and Pony Show (III 5.12a; FA Michael Schneiter and Chris Van Leuven). Or, walk left along base of wall and look for route second from left. Marked by bolt 15 feet up, and more above.


Protection 

15 QDs including long runners, and medium draws. 2 ropes, 60m recommended. Blue Alien - 2.5" Friend, #5 Friend for P1 (keeps you off the deck). Extra green Alien to #0.5 Camalot. C3s useful. All placements in horizontals. Belays are 2-3 bolts. Generally bolts are 1/2" X 3 3/4", and belays are on spacious ledges. Rap the route.



Photos of Behind the Curtain Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Gross on P3, 5.12b, 160 ft. <br />Mixed bolts and pro to 2"; especially green Alien to #0.5 Camalot.

Josh Gross on P3, 5.12b, 160 ft.
Mixed bolts and ...


Josh Gross following P1; 5.10c, 100 ft.<br />This pitch is surprisingly steep and very pumpy. Bring a #5 Friend for near the deck. Crux is low, but it stays on you the whole way.

Josh Gross following P1; 5.10c, 100 ft.
...


Josh Gross on P1, 5.10. This pitch will keep your attention the whole way.

Josh Gross on P1, 5.10. This pitch will keep your ...

Josh Gross on P2, .11b. This pitch is basically sport bolted. That said, it's not easy, and is a bit sporty. Thin moves and long pulls define this pitch.

Josh Gross on P2, .11b. This pitch is basically sp...

Josh Gross on P3. This pitch gets wild at the the roof located about 80 feet up. There's a series of roofs, really, and some are gear protected. The final crux is somethin'.

Josh Gross on P3. This pitch gets wild at the the ...

Josh Gross P3. Steep and unrelenting!

Josh Gross P3. Steep and unrelenting!

P3. Those roofs are gear protected.

P3. Those roofs are gear protected.

Josh Gross, P3. He's a 120' out of 160' on lead. Those last bolts protect 11+ terrain; go right at final bolt!

Josh Gross, P3. He's a 120' out of 160' on lead. T...

Chris leading the 100ft p1.

Chris leading the 100ft p1.

Pitch 1 great steep 5.10!

Pitch 1 great steep 5.10!

Chris seconding P2, 5.11b.

Chris seconding P2, 5.11b.

Chris heading into the first roof gnar!

Chris heading into the first roof gnar!

Chris working up into the roofs and placing gear out right!

Chris working up into the roofs and placing gear o...

Behind The Curtain.

Behind The Curtain.


Comments on Behind the Curtain Add Comment
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By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 21, 2009

You guys are animals.