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Middle Earth 

East Canyon

Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 11, 2009
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
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BETA PHOTO: East Canyon.


Description 

East Canyon offers a welcome respite from the Puoux. Situated on the hillside between the Puoux and No Name canyon, the gray streaked limestone walls are obvious and alluring from I-70. Climbing here is more secluded and sometimes more adventurous than the Puoux and the interstate below only offers a barely noticeable sound.

The rock here is predominantly high quality, featured, and sharp although the routes tend to be shorter.

The crags face east, offering afternoon shade so depending on the weather, you can climb here spring, summer or fall.


Getting There 

Drive to the No Name exit (#119) on I-70 and take the westbound on-ramp, as if you were headed to Glenwood Springs. Park in a large dirt lot at the end of the on-ramp (there are no parking signs to avoid on the on-ramp). Walk back east (towards No Name) on the on-ramp and look for some trail signs (cairns, stick, etc.) that mark the approach trail which cuts up and left on the dirt sidebank. The trail will zig zag up a small ridge, following cairns, for several minutes until it runs into the remains of the old wood and metal aqueduct. Follow the aqueduct as closely as possible for another five minutes or so until a cairn or two leads up a dirt slope and into the trees where the trail continues. From there follow cairns along a more established and defined trail to the crags which are visible on the left (west) side of the East Canyon drainage. The Gecko Wall is encountered first, followed by Middle Earth and the Hole Wall above.

Expect 20 to 30 minutes, particularly for your first time on the approach.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Canyon:
Within Range   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Hole Wall
Black Beauty   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hole Wall
Browse More Classics in East Canyon