This massive wall dominates the landscape above Grizzly Creek and features some of the best "choss" Glenwood Canyon has to offer with routes up to 700 feet in length.
The Mudwall has a long and storied history, dating back to the 1960s when Layton Kor burned through a number of partners in his forays to the steep, ominous wall. As the story goes, Kor reverted to lying to his partners about what they were climbing, assuring them they were headed to the desert or elsewhere for classic ascents, before turning off the highway at Grizzly Creek, where the Mudwall prominently towers above the canyon.
Getting There
Take the Grizzly Creek exit (#121) off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. Park in the large lot on the north side of the interstate, across the interstate from the boat launch.
Hike for 0.9 mile on the Grizzly Creek trail. Shortly after passing a small metal culvert underneath the trail you will encounter a steep section of trail with a square, cube-shaped on the left side of the trail. Here, a large, old logjam has recently been cut up but a reasonably safe and easy passage can be found across the creek. On the other side of the creek, head uphill and into a large scree field where you can follow cairns to the base of the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mudwall):
Mudflap Girl 5.10 Trad, 10 pitches, 700 feet, Grade IV
P1: 5.10, 100 ft. Pro small to 2.5", #5 Friend useful low. In your face off the deck. Overhanging.P: 2 5.11b, 70 feet 1 each 0.4-0.5" optional. Crux is bolted, as is most of pitch. P3: 5.12b, 160 ft. Not too much trad pro, generally green Aliens, C3s and up to 1.75". Steep! Cruxes throughout, including pumpy finish. Some cruxes are gear protected; including the roof (green Alien to 1.25").No nuts. "Nesting" placements recommended....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The late Roy Poteet and I made a foray on the Mudwall in 1984, looking to repeat an old Kor route. Roy had a vague verbal description of the route from Kor. We climbed up some crack system about a pitch and a half. The entire crack and surface of the wall was covered with about a half inch of caked on, dried "mud". When you tried to clean it, it exploded into a cloud of dust. I wanted goggles and respirator. We bailed but I remember thinking that there was some good rock underneath the dirt.
It's very cool you guys have found a way to climb some decent sounding routes on this wall. Any chance the big walls above the Glenwood Falls ice routes have decent potential? If so there is any absurd amount of big routes to do in Glenwood Canyon.
"The entire crack and surface of the wall was covered with about a half inch of caked on, dried "mud". When you tried to clean it, it exploded into a cloud of dust. I wanted goggles and respirator. "
Yup. That's how it feels to climb there -- at first. Some routes are clean from the get-go, as in my (our) first route, Orangina (right of Bear Paw, one of Kor's lines). Horse and Pony was dirty and covered in loose blocks and we cleaned it (just the two of us) for several days spread out over several weeks. . We worked hard cleaning that line, which got pretty clean overall, but is still a tad dusty in a spot or two. This new line got a lot more attention to cleaning. Plus, we had a posse working on it, so we really cleaned it up good. Real good. And, yes, the rock underneath the silt is great. We haven't taken any big falls on small camming units to test this theory, but it seems right.
"Any chance the big walls above the Glenwood Falls ice routes have decent potential?"
Yes. Definitely. Glenwood Canyon is stacked, and the possibilities are endless. I can't wait to put up many, many more routes in and around that area. Kor calls Glenwood Canyon a destination climbing area -- I agree. Course, I love a good adventure. As do my faithful climbing partners Mike Schneiter, Josh Gross and others. I think having a good sense of adventure is key for enjoying the great climbs in Glenwood Canyon.
Nice Chris. There is a lot of "mud" up there but there's also a lot of amazing rock. There's a ton of potential in Glenwood Canyon but there's a whole lot of choss too. Michael Kennedy and Harvey Carter climbed a 2-3 pitch line in the quartzite above Glenwood Falls. Sounded okay. So, yes, there's some climbing potential there but nothing to quit your job for.
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
