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NoName 36 
NoName 4 
NoName 4.5 
NoName 5 aka Roadside Attraction 
NoName 6 aka The Ballerina 
NoName 6.3 
NoName 6.5 
NoName 6.7 
NoName 7 
NoName 8 
Original Route 
Road Runner 
Spine Fish 
Traditional Values 

NoName 5 aka Roadside Attraction 

5.8

   

FA: Unpublished
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 423 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 20, 2002


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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Route-5 has two very short pitches. Begin exactly where the trail meets the cliff. The upper pitch is far and away the better of the two.


Protection 

Several draws and a rope.



Add Photo Photos of NoName 5 aka Roadside Attraction
First pitch.

First pitch.

Me on the 2nd pitch.

Me on the 2nd pitch.

Mi padre pitch 1.

Mi padre pitch 1.


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By L. Hamilton
Aug 9, 2002

First pitch is steep and juggy but polished, feltcloser to 5.9 than 5.8. Second pitch is prettier,not polished and easier than the first. It's nothard to combine both in one lead.

By A concerned citizen
Apr 20, 2004
rating: 5.8+

P1 is short and mostly 5.8 with a .8+ move near the top, being a painful hand jam crux. Can easily combine both pitches with a 60 meter rope, however the second pitch is much harder than the first, going at 9 or 9+.

By jasonRFV
Apr 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+

Someone's been busy on this route (Roadside Attraction)...it has been modified sometime since late last fall. The culprit chopped some handy-dandy edges & ledges at the (once) thoughtful opening moves, and at the (once) crux move at the top of P2 (Roadrunner). They also saw it necessary to knock a couple into the middle of the Roadrunner pitch, amidst a sea of great, sharp limestone edges. I suspect "they" may be manufacturing an easy M climb, though I'm not sure why; the tell tale crampon scratches on P1 are pretty hard to miss. Maybe they were trying to make the climb go at a true 5.8 (I would argue that the original line went harder than 5.8). As local ice and rock climbers, my partners and I are pretty upset by this retro-chipping. Sure, some routes at the Puoux are known to be chipped, and Roadside Attraction is nowhere near a classic route, but it does not change the principle: it's not ok to alter the rock to your ability or desires. There are quality natural routes up there, and it would be a shame to see them defaced as well.